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the pecan mole of northern Mexico: ground toasted pecans, dried ancho and pasilla chillies, roasted tomatoes, and warm spice ground together to a thick, richly nutty sauce for braised chicken in the tradition of the Chihuahuan hacienda kitchen
Origin: Chihuahua, Mexico
From the journey of Pecan.
The moles of northern Mexico are less well known internationally than the dark, complex moles of Oaxaca and Puebla, but they represent a distinct and significant regional tradition rooted in the hacienda cooking of the colonial period and the agricultural resources of the Chihuahuan desert and the mountain valleys of the Sierra Madre Occidental. The mole de nuez is the pecan mole of Chihuahua: a sauce in which ground toasted pecans form the body (thickening and enriching it in the way that ground almonds or pumpkin seeds do in other regional moles) combined with dried chillies, roasted tomatoes, garlic, and warm spice. The pecan's role in this mole is that of the structural nut: its fat emulsifies into the sauce as it is ground, its tannins provide a pleasantly bitter edge that balances the sweetness of the dried fruit and the heat of the chillies, and its deep, roasted flavour (intensified by dry-toasting before grinding) gives the sauce a warm, earthy complexity quite different from the walnut moles of Puebla or the almond-enriched sauces of the Yucatán. The Chihuahuan version is drier and less chocolate-forward than the southern moles; it relies on the quality of the dried chillies and the pecans themselves rather than on the many-spice complexity of mole negro. The dish is traditionally served with braised chicken pieces, the sauce poured over the meat and allowed to cook together for a final period so that the chicken absorbs the flavour of the mole and the sauce thickens around the meat. Rice and fresh corn tortillas are the obligatory accompaniments.
The quality of the pecans is central to this dish: fresh, well-toasted pecans produce a mole with a deep, warm, complex flavour; stale or poorly toasted pecans produce a flat, slightly rancid one. Dry-toast the pecans just before blending, and taste one after toasting to ensure they are fragrant and flavourful. The mole can be made 2 days ahead and refrigerated; it improves with resting as the chilli and pecan flavours integrate. Reheat gently with a little added stock to restore the consistency.
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