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Polish cucumber sliced tissue-thin, salted, and dressed with soured cream and dill
Origin: Poland
From the journey of Dill.
Mizeria is four ingredients and a technique, and the technique is the whole of it. Cucumber is sliced as thin as the cook can manage, salted, and left to weep for half an hour. What is drawn out is a startling amount of water, and squeezing it away is what allows the soured cream to coat the slices rather than sit in a pool beneath them. Skip it and the bowl fills with grey liquid within minutes. It is the same principle as the Bulgarian snezhanka and the Greek tzatziki, arrived at independently along the same cucumber-and-dairy belt. The name is a small mystery with a good story attached. It appears to come from the Latin miseria, wretchedness, and the tale usually told is that Queen Bona Sforza, the Milanese princess who married Sigismund I of Poland in 1518 and is credited with introducing a raft of vegetables to the Polish table, wept for Italy whenever she ate it. The story is almost certainly retrospective, but Bona's influence on Polish vegetable growing is real enough that the Polish word for soup greens, włoszczyzna, still means literally Italian stuff. What makes it Polish rather than merely a cucumber salad is the dill and the soured cream together. The cream is śmietana, thicker and less sharp than crème fraîche, and the dill goes in raw and in quantity at the end. It is a summer side, eaten with roast chicken, with potato dishes, and above all beside crumbed pork cutlet, and it is on the table at practically every Polish Sunday dinner between June and September.
Make it within a couple of hours of serving. It holds for a day but the cucumber softens and the dill fades. A lighter, older version dresses the squeezed cucumber with vinegar, sugar, and dill alone and no cream at all, which is the form usually served with fish. The salting-and-squeezing step is the transferable lesson. It is what makes tzatziki, cacık, snezhanka, and mast-o-khiar work as well, and skipping it is the single commonest fault in all of them. Serve beside kotlet schabowy, roast chicken, or new potatoes with butter. It is a side dish and is not intended to be eaten alone.
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