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A 14th-century tart of woodland strawberries in a spiced custard of eggs, honey and verjuice, baked in a short-crust shell: delicate, slightly tangy and fragrant with cinnamon, ginger and the tiny wild berries that Roman poets praised and medieval monks cultivated in their gardens
Origin: Medieval Europe (France / England), c. 14th century
From the journey of Strawberry.
Fragaria vesca, the wild woodland strawberry, has been gathered across Europe since prehistoric times. Virgil and Ovid both mention it; Pliny the Elder wrote of its scent. But it was medieval monks who first cultivated it systematically, growing it in physic gardens for its medicinal properties (it was believed to cool fevers and purify the blood). By the 14th century, the strawberry had moved from monastery to aristocratic table. King Charles V of France ordered 1,200 strawberry plants for the Louvre gardens, and French cookbooks of the period, including the Ménagier de Paris (c. 1393), record strawberries as an aristocratic ingredient. Tarts combining fresh fruits with a spiced egg custard were extremely common in medieval haute cuisine, and the woodland strawberry, with its intense perfume, was one of the most prized fillings. Verjuice (the acidic juice of unripe grapes) was the standard souring agent before lemons became common, giving the custard a gentle tartness that balanced the sweetness of honey.
Verjuice is available from specialty food stores and online; it is made from unripe grapes and has a gentle, clean acidity quite different from vinegar or lemon juice. It is worth seeking out for this recipe. If unavailable, use 70ml white grape juice mixed with 30ml lemon juice as a substitute. The spice quantities here are moderate by medieval standards; historical recipes often used considerably more spice, as spices were status symbols. Increase the cinnamon and ginger if you want a more period-authentic flavour.
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