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Mandalay's black gram fritters: soaked black gram ground coarse with onion, garlic, and chilli, fried into small crisp rounds, and eaten at the teashop with a sour tamarind dip
Origin: Mandalay & Upper Burma, Myanmar
From the journey of Black Gram.
Burmese fritters, a-kyaw, belong to the teashop. They are bought hot at breakfast or in the afternoon, eaten on their own with a sour-sweet tamarind sauce, or broken over other dishes, and they are made from almost anything that can be battered: gourd, onion, chickpea, shrimp, and above all beans and pulses. Mat pe kyaw is the black gram fritter. Mat pe is the Burmese name for black gram, which is soaked, ground to a coarse, sticky paste, seasoned with onion, garlic, and chilli, and fried in small flat rounds until crisp at the edges. It is also called Mandalay baya kyaw, to tell it apart from the baya kyaw of Yangon, which is made from yellow split peas. Myanmar grows more black gram than any country except India, most of it in the lowland regions of Bago and Ayeyarwady, and since the late 1980s it has grown the crop largely for export, selling the greater part of its harvest to India. But the pulse is a Burmese food as well as a Burmese commodity, eaten at home in soups, pastes, noodles, and sprouts, and in this fritter. The nearest relative of mat pe kyaw is the South Asian vada, and for the same reason: ground black gram holds air better than any other pulse, so a black gram fritter is lighter and crisper than one made from split peas. The record does not say whether the Burmese fritter descends from the vada or grew up alongside it.
Whole black gram with its black skin on gives a darker, earthier fritter; soak and rub off as much skin as you like. The paste can be ground a few hours ahead and kept in the fridge; beat it again before frying. This is a different fritter from the Yangon baya kyaw, which is made from yellow split peas and is flatter and denser.
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