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flatbread spread with za'atar loosened in olive oil and baked hot: Lebanon's breakfast, folded and eaten on the walk to work
Origin: Beirut & Mount Lebanon
From the journey of Thyme.
Manoushe is the breakfast of Lebanon. A disc of dough is dimpled with the fingertips, spread with za'atar slaked in olive oil, and baked for a few minutes in a very hot oven, then folded in half and handed over in paper. It is bought from the furn, the neighbourhood bakery, on the way to work or school, and the bakeries open before dawn to sell it. Za'atar is both a plant and a blend, which is a persistent confusion. The plant is Origanum syriacum, a wild Levantine hyssop closer to oregano than to garden thyme, and it has been gathered from the hillsides for as long as there is record. The blend built on it adds toasted sesame, sumac for sourness, and salt, and the proportions are a household matter that people are surprisingly firm about. That the plant is wild-gathered has become a real problem. Over-harvesting has put pressure on wild Origanum syriacum across the Levant, and Israel restricted the picking of wild za'atar in 1977 on conservation grounds, a restriction that has been contentious among Palestinian foragers for whom the gathering is both food and custom. Cultivation has since expanded and now supplies most of the commercial trade. The oil matters as much as the herb. Za'atar is never scattered dry onto the dough; it is loosened with enough olive oil to make a spreadable paste, which stops it burning in a very hot oven and carries the flavour into the bread.
Slake the za'atar in oil rather than scattering it dry, or it scorches in the few minutes it has in the oven and turns bitter. Buy za'atar from a Middle Eastern shop where it turns over quickly, since the blend goes dusty and flat within months. Do not overbake: a manoushe is soft and folds, and a crisp one has gone too far. The dough is better made the night before and proved slowly in the refrigerator.
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