Makham Klook

the four-tastes tamarind sweet of Thailand: ripe tamarind pulp kneaded with sugar, salt, and chilli into soft, chewy pieces at once sour, sweet, salty, and hot, sold in every Thai market

Origin: Thailand

From the journey of Tamarind.

Makham klook, 'tossed tamarind', is one of the most beloved sweets and snacks of Thailand, and it captures in a single mouthful the four-way balance of sour, sweet, salt, and heat that defines the whole of Thai taste. It is made from ripe tamarind, makham, the great sour fruit that Thailand grows both as the sharp cooking variety and, uniquely, as the mild sweet dessert tamarind makham wan eaten fresh from the pod. For makham klook the pulp is worked and kneaded with sugar, salt, and a little dried chilli until it becomes a soft, chewy, glistening sweet, sometimes rolled around the seeds and sometimes seeded, that is sold by weight in every fresh market, at bus stations, and by roadside vendors across the country. It is the kind of sweet that Thais love above all others, not sugary and one-note but complex and grown-up, the deep sourness of the fruit meeting the sugar and the salt and the slow burn of the chilli in a way that keeps the hand returning to the bag. Sharp, sweet, salty, and hot, it is Thailand's national palate in miniature.

Ingredients

  • 300 g ripe tamarind, block or fresh pods (soft, sweet-sour type if available)
  • 120 g sugar (palm sugar or caster), plus extra for rolling
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 1 tsp roasted dried chilli flakes, or to taste

Method

  1. If using fresh pods, peel them and remove the brittle shell and the coarse fibres, keeping the pulp (and the seeds, if you like the traditional style). If using block tamarind, break it up and pull out any loose seeds and fibre.
  2. Warm the sugar and salt with a tablespoon of water in a small pan over a low heat, stirring, just until the sugar dissolves into a thick syrup. Do not let it caramelise.
  3. Put the tamarind pulp in a bowl, pour over the warm syrup, add the chilli flakes, and mix and knead thoroughly with a spoon or gloved hands until the sugar, salt, and chilli are evenly worked through and the mass is soft, sticky, and glossy.
  4. Pinch off small pieces and roll them into balls or short logs, then roll each in a little extra sugar to stop them sticking. Leave to firm at room temperature for an hour before serving.

Notes

If you can find the Thai sweet tamarind (makham wan), it makes a milder, more date-like sweet that needs less sugar; the ordinary sour tamarind makes a sharper, more bracing one, which many prefer. The balance of sugar, salt, and chilli is entirely to taste and varies from vendor to vendor. Some versions add a little ginger or five-spice; others leave the chilli out for children. The same seasoned pulp, thinned with water, makes an excellent tamarind dipping sauce for fruit.

The Gastrographer

The Gastrographer

Mapping Culinary History

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Journey Point Map Key

Ingredient originTrade or transit route
Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control
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