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the cooling mung bean soup of the Chinese summer: whole green beans boiled until they burst, sweetened with rock sugar, and drunk warm or chilled against the heat
Origin: China
From the journey of Mung Bean.
Chinese medicine classifies the mung bean as strongly cooling, and lǜdòu tāng is the practical application of that belief on a national scale. It is drunk through the summer months across the whole country as a specific against heatstroke and against shànghuǒ, the internal heat held to be caused by hot weather, fried food, and stress; municipalities and employers have long distributed it to outdoor workers during heatwaves, and hospitals and canteens keep vats of it going through July and August. The materia medica goes further and credits mung with countering poison, a claim that appears in Chinese pharmacological writing from the Tang period onwards and is still repeated in the household advice that mung soup should not be taken alongside medicine lest it cancel the dose. Whether or not any of that stands up, the soup itself is genuinely refreshing: thin, faintly starchy, mildly sweet, and served either warm from the pot in the north or poured over ice in Guangdong, where it is a tong sui, a sweet water. Cantonese practice often adds a strip of dried tangerine peel or a knot of kelp, and a version cooked longer until the beans dissolve entirely is served as a thick porridge for breakfast. It is amongst the plainest things in Chinese cookery and one of the most widely made.
Rock sugar gives a cleaner sweetness than granulated and is what is traditionally used, though caster sugar will do. Cantonese versions add dried tangerine peel, a small knot of kombu, or a few lily bulbs; a common northern variant cooks the beans with a handful of glutinous rice for body. For the more elaborate lǜdòu shā, sieve the cooked beans to remove the skins and cook the purée down with sugar into a smooth paste for filling mooncakes and buns. The traditional caution that mung soup counteracts medicine is folk pharmacology rather than established fact, but it is widely enough believed in China that it is worth knowing. Note that the mung bean here is the whole plant's simplest use; the sprouting and starch-extraction techniques for which China is far more significant are separate preparations entirely.
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