Liangban Wosun

A cool, crunchy Sichuan starter of celtuce, the Chinese stem lettuce: the jade-green stem peeled, julienned, salted to crispness, and tossed in chilli oil, black vinegar, garlic, and toasted Sichuan pepper

Origin: Sichuan, China

From the journey of Lettuce.

Celtuce, known in Chinese as wosun or woju, is the great Chinese exception in the lettuce family: a lettuce bred not for its leaves but for its stem, which swells into a thick, pale jade-green stalk that is peeled of its fibrous skin to reveal a crisp, juicy, faintly sweet flesh quite unlike any leaf vegetable. It is one of the most popular vegetables in China, and nowhere more so than in Sichuan, where its clean crunch and cooling character make it a favourite for the cold dishes, the liangcai, that open a Sichuan meal. In liangban wosun, the peeled stem is cut into fine matchsticks or thin coins, salted briefly to draw out water and firm the texture, then dressed in the classic Sichuan cold-dish manner: red chilli oil with its sediment, the malty black vinegar of Zhenjiang, a little soy and sugar, raw garlic, toasted and ground Sichuan pepper for its numbing tingle, and a few drops of sesame oil. The result is bright, refreshing, and electric on the tongue, the gentle sweetness of the celtuce playing against the heat, sourness, and characteristic ma-la numbness of the dressing. It is exactly the sort of cold vegetable that a Sichuan cook sets down to wake the appetite before the richer cooked dishes arrive.

Ingredients

The Celtuce

2 celtuce stems (about 500g), leaves removed and reserved for another use
1 tsp salt, for salting

Dressing

2 tbsp Sichuan chilli oil, with some of its sediment
1 tbsp Chinkiang black rice vinegar
2 tsp light soy sauce
1 tsp caster sugar
2 cloves garlic, finely grated to a paste
0.5 tsp Sichuan peppercorns, toasted and finely ground
1 tsp toasted sesame oil

To Finish

1 tbsp toasted white sesame seeds, to garnish

Method

Trim the celtuce stems and peel away the tough outer skin and any fibrous layer beneath it with a knife, until only the pale, translucent green flesh remains. The peeling must be thorough, as any skin left on will be stringy.
Cut the peeled stems into thin matchsticks, or into thin coins for a different texture. Toss with the teaspoon of salt in a bowl and leave for 15 minutes.
Tip the celtuce into a colander, rinse briefly to remove excess salt, and squeeze gently in a clean cloth to remove the water. Pat dry and return to a bowl.
Whisk together the chilli oil, black vinegar, soy sauce, sugar, garlic paste, ground Sichuan pepper, and sesame oil. Pour over the celtuce and toss well to coat.
Pile onto a plate, scatter with toasted sesame seeds, and serve cold or at room temperature.

Notes

Celtuce is increasingly found in Chinese grocers, sometimes labelled stem lettuce, wosun, or its Cantonese name woh sun; choose firm, heavy stems. If unavailable, the thick peeled stems of a bolted romaine, or kohlrabi, give a comparable crunch though not the same flavour. Adjust the chilli oil to taste; for a milder dish, reduce it and add a little more sesame oil.

The Gastrographer

Name: Liangban Wosun
Prep time: 20 min
Total time: 20 min
Yield: 4
Cuisine: China
Ingredients: 2 celtuce stems (about 500g), leaves removed and reserved for another use; 1 tsp salt, for salting; 2 tbsp Sichuan chilli oil, with some of its sediment; 1 tbsp Chinkiang black rice vinegar; 2 tsp light soy sauce; 1 tsp caster sugar; 2 cloves garlic, finely grated to a paste; 0.5 tsp Sichuan peppercorns, toasted and finely ground; 1 tsp toasted sesame oil; 1 tbsp toasted white sesame seeds, to garnish

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Journey Point Map Key

Ingredient originTrade or transit route

Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control