Kuzu Pirzola

The simplest glory of the Turkish grill: lamb chops rubbed with oregano (kekik), olive oil, and garlic, then seared hard over coals until charred and pink, served with a squeeze of lemon, grilled tomatoes and peppers, and flatbread

Origin: Turkey

From the journey of Oregano.

On the Turkish grill, the ocakbaşı, lamb is king, and the loin chop (pirzola) is amongst its most prized cuts. It needs almost nothing done to it: a rub of oregano (kekik), olive oil, and garlic, a fierce fire, and a squeeze of lemon at the end. Oregano is the natural partner, for Turkey grows it in vast abundance on the Aegean hills and is the world's largest exporter of the dried herb; kekik flavours the grills, kebabs, and salads of the whole country. The chops are grilled hard and fast so the fat crisps and chars while the meat stays pink, and served simply with grilled vegetables and bread. It is Turkish grilling at its most elemental: great meat, fire, oregano, and lemon.

Ingredients

Lamb

  • 12 lamb loin chops

Marinade

  • 2 tbsp dried oregano (kekik)
  • 3 tbsp olive oil
  • 3 cloves garlic, crushed
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 0.5 tsp black pepper

To serve

  • 1 lemon, cut into wedges
  • 4 tomatoes and long green peppers, for grilling

Method

  1. Rub the lamb chops with the oregano, olive oil, garlic, salt, and pepper. Leave to marinate at room temperature for 30 minutes, or in the refrigerator for a few hours.
  2. Heat a barbecue or griddle pan until very hot. Grill the tomatoes and peppers alongside, turning, until blistered and soft, and set aside.
  3. Grill the chops over high heat for about 3 minutes per side, standing them on their fatty edge for a moment too, until well charred outside and pink and juicy within.
  4. Rest the chops for a couple of minutes and scatter with a little more oregano.
  5. Serve with the grilled vegetables, lemon wedges, flatbread, and a sharp salad or a bowl of yoghurt.

Notes

Turkish dried oregano (kekik) is pungent and worth seeking out; it is the same herb that fills the world's pizza jars. The chops want little more than oregano, garlic, lemon, and fire. Serve with a çoban salatası (shepherd's salad), grilled flatbread, and yoghurt for a complete Turkish grill. The same marinade is excellent on lamb cutlets, leg steaks, or a butterflied shoulder.

The Gastrographer

The Gastrographer

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Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control
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