Kopi tubruk (Javanese boiled coffee)

Coarse coffee and sugar brewed directly in the glass: Java's ancient unfiltered collision

Origin: Java / Yogyakarta, Indonesia

From the journey of Coffee.

The word Java became synonymous with coffee across the English-speaking world for a reason. In 1696, Dutch Governor-General Willem van Outhoorn ordered coffee plants, sourced from the Malabar coast of India, to be cultivated in Java under the VOC (Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie). By the early 18th century, Java was producing such enormous quantities of coffee for the Amsterdam commodity markets that the island's name entered global slang. It was Javanese stock that was gifted to Amsterdam's Hortus Botanicus, and from there a single plant was transported to Paris's Jardin des Plantes; and it was the descendants of that Parisian plant that were carried by Gabriel de Clieu to Martinique in 1720, from which virtually all of Latin America's coffee was eventually descended. So the coffee in your cup in Brazil or Colombia traces its lineage back to Java. Kopi tubruk; tubruk meaning 'collision' or 'crash' in Javanese; is the foundational Indonesian coffee preparation, predating any filtration technology. Coarsely ground coffee and sugar are placed together in a glass, boiling water is poured directly over, and the coffee is left to sit. No filter, no press, no equipment beyond a kettle and a glass. You wait for the grounds to settle; usually three to four minutes; and then drink slowly and carefully, stopping before the thick sediment at the bottom reaches your lips. Indonesia's coffee culture extends far beyond Java: kopi joss from Yogyakarta adds a piece of glowing charcoal to the glass to neutralise acidity; the Gayo highlands of Aceh produce some of the world's most prized wet-hulled Arabica; and kopi luwak; coffee processed through the digestive system of the Asian palm civet; is the world's most expensive coffee by weight.

Ingredients

Coffee

  • 2 tsp coarsely ground dark-roast Javanese or Sumatran coffee (the grind should resemble coarse sea salt, not fine powder)

Sweetener

  • 1.5 tsp white sugar (or to taste, kopi tubruk is traditionally sweet)

Water

  • 150 ml water, brought to a full rolling boil

Method

  1. Place the ground coffee and sugar together in a small glass (around 150–200ml capacity). A traditional Indonesian glass is short and thick-walled; a sturdy heatproof glass works well.
  2. Bring the water to a full, vigorous boil. Pour it directly over the coffee and sugar in a single steady pour, filling the glass to about 1cm below the rim.
  3. Stir once, briefly, to dissolve the sugar and ensure all the grounds are wetted. Then leave completely undisturbed.
  4. Wait 3 to 4 minutes for the grounds to settle to the bottom of the glass. The surface of the coffee should become clear and calm.
  5. Drink slowly, sipping carefully from the top of the glass. Stop drinking when you reach the last centimetre, where the thick sediment lies.

Notes

Kopi tubruk is best made with coffee grown and processed in Sumatra, Java, Sulawesi, or Flores using the wet-hulled (Giling Basah) method, which produces the characteristic earthy, full-bodied, low-acidity flavour that defines Indonesian coffee. Light-roast Ethiopian single-origins will taste odd and sour in this preparation: the method suits dark, earthy, bold coffees. For a variation: kopi joss is made by adding a small piece of restaurant-grade or food-safe activated charcoal (or, in Yogyakarta, a freshly glowing piece of wood charcoal) directly to the glass after pouring the water; the charcoal hisses dramatically and is said to reduce acidity. Store unused ground coffee in an airtight container away from light.

The Gastrographer

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