To explore — select an ingredient below.
To explore — select an ingredient below · click any location dot on the map for recipes and stories · browse the information panel on the right · trace the full journey on the timeline.
Journey Point Map Key
Laos's sticky rice: soaked overnight, steamed in a conical bamboo basket, and eaten by hand in balls pressed against the palm
Origin: Luang Prabang, Vientiane & the Middle Mekong
From the journey of Rice.
Laos eats more glutinous rice per person than any country on earth, and it is the only nation where it is the staple rather than a speciality. Khao niao is not a side dish or a sweet: it is the meal, three times a day, and Lao people describe themselves as luk khao niao, children of sticky rice. Everything else on a Lao table is arranged around it and is designed to be picked up with it. It is not boiled, and this is the thing most people get wrong. Glutinous rice has almost no amylose, so it will not absorb water in the way ordinary rice does; boiled, it turns to glue. Instead it is soaked for at least four hours and preferably overnight, drained completely, and steamed dry over water in a huad, a conical bamboo basket set on a narrow-necked pot. The steam passes through it, and the grains cook whole, separate, and firm. The basket is flipped rather than stirred. Halfway through, the whole mass is thrown up and caught so it turns over in the air, which lets the grains that were nearest the steam swap places with those on top. Watching someone do it well is a large part of the pleasure of a Lao kitchen. It is eaten with the right hand from a tip khao, a lidded basket set on the table, and there is a technique: a small ball is taken, pressed and rolled against the fingers until the surface compacts slightly, then dipped or used to pinch up a mouthful of laap, jeow, or grilled fish. The compressed ball holds together and does not shed grains, and getting that wrong is the immediate tell of a visitor. The tip khao is kept closed between mouthfuls, since sticky rice dries hard in minutes.
Use rice sold as glutinous, sticky, or sweet rice; ordinary long-grain will not work and neither will Japanese short-grain, which is a different kind of stickiness. The overnight soak and the dry steam are the whole method, and boiling it in water gives paste. A bamboo huad and a narrow pot are cheap from any Southeast Asian grocer and make a real difference, but a metal steamer lined with damp muslin does the job. Do not salt it or add anything to it: khao niao is unseasoned by design, because everything it is eaten with is strongly flavoured. Leftovers reheat well in the steamer and are also grilled in balls or fried.
To explore — select an ingredient below.
To explore — select an ingredient below · click any location dot on the map for recipes and stories · browse the information panel on the right · trace the full journey on the timeline.
Journey Point Map Key