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the Adjarian boat of bread filled with molten sulguni, finished at the table with a raw egg and a lump of butter stirred through
Origin: Batumi, Adjara & Georgia
From the journey of Wheat.
Every Georgian region has a khachapuri and they are not variations on a theme so much as separate dishes sharing a name. Imeruli is a flat round with the cheese sealed inside. Megruli is the same with more cheese baked on top. Achma from Adjara is closer to a lasagne of boiled pastry sheets. The one that has travelled is Adjaruli, the open boat, and it is the one given here. The boat is a piece of theatre with a purpose. Dough is shaped into an open-ended oval, the ends twisted into a point at each side, and the well filled with cheese; it goes into a hot oven until the cheese is molten and the crust is set. Then, in the last two minutes, an egg is slipped into the middle and the bread comes to the table with the white barely clouded and the yolk raw. A lump of butter goes in beside it, and the eater stirs egg, butter, and cheese together into a single loose sauce with the twisted end of the crust, then tears the boat apart and dips as they go. The prow is eaten last. The cheese is what makes it Georgian. Sulguni is a brined pasta filata cheese from Samegrelo, stretchy and sour, and imeruli is its fresher, milder cousin; the usual filling is a mixture of the two, the sulguni for the pull and the imeruli for the tang. Mozzarella with feta is the standard substitute abroad and gets close, provided the mozzarella is drained hard. Adjara is the Black Sea coast around Batumi, and the shape is often said to represent a boat with the yolk as the sun. That reading is repeated everywhere and is almost certainly later than the dish, which is the sort of story a tourist board improves rather than invents.
Squeeze the mozzarella dry if you are substituting, since excess moisture is the main reason a home khachapuri turns soggy. Seal the two ends firmly and twist them, because that is what holds the molten cheese in. The oven must be genuinely hot: a moderate oven dries the crust before the cheese has melted. The final egg wants two or three minutes and no more, as a set yolk defeats the purpose of the dish. Sulguni is sold by Georgian, Russian, and Eastern European grocers and is worth finding for the pull it gives, though drained mozzarella with feta is a respectable stand-in.
To explore — select an ingredient below.
To explore — select an ingredient below · click any location dot on the map for recipes and stories · browse the information panel on the right · trace the full journey on the timeline.
Journey Point Map Key