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Turkish celeriac braised in olive oil with lemon: a cold mezze of perfect simplicity
Origin: Turkey
From the journey of Celery.
Zeytinyağlı dishes (vegetables cooked slowly in generous quantities of olive oil, served at room temperature or cold) form one of the most distinctive and philosophically coherent categories of Turkish cuisine. The technique is Ottoman in origin and reflects a fundamental principle of the Turkish table: that vegetables prepared with care and good olive oil need nothing else. Kereviz zeytinyağlı (braised celeriac with olive oil) is one of the most prized entries in this tradition, a dish that demonstrates how the assertive, earthy character of celeriac (the bulbous root form of celery) is transformed by slow, gentle braising into something tender, sweet, and profoundly satisfying. The dish is classically part of the meze spread (served cold at the beginning of a meal alongside other zeytinyağlı preparations) but it is equally eaten as a side dish with grilled meats or fish. Celeriac in Ottoman Turkish cooking was called kereviz and appears in culinary records from at least the 15th century. The combination with carrot, onion, and lemon is the traditional preparation, producing a dish of vivid orange, cream, and gold that is as beautiful to look at as it is to eat.
This dish is best made a day ahead, the celeriac absorbs the lemon-infused oil overnight and the flavour becomes markedly richer and more complex. Kereviz zeytinyağlı keeps for 3–4 days in the refrigerator and improves throughout. Serve as part of a meze spread alongside other cold dishes: humus, tarama, patlıcan salatası (smoked aubergine). The dill is essential, it is the herb that defines Turkish cold vegetable preparations and its anise freshness is the perfect complement to celeriac.
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