Kerala black pepper fish curry

Malabar Coast fish curry with whole black pepper

Origin: Kerala, India

From the journey of Black Pepper.

The Malabar Coast (the narrow strip of Kerala between the Western Ghats and the Arabian Sea) is simultaneously the birthplace of black pepper cultivation and one of India's great fishing regions. The combination of the two in a single dish is entirely natural. Kerala fish curries are generally coconut-based, but the pepper fish curries of the Malabar interior (particularly among the Syrian Christian and Mappila Muslim communities) are darker, drier, and more aggressively spiced: built around coconut oil, mustard seeds, curry leaves, and quantities of black pepper that reflect the spice's abundance and cultural centrality. Vasco da Gama sailed to Calicut specifically for this pepper in 1498, and the fish he would have found there were cooked in exactly this way.

Ingredients

Main

700 g firm white fish (kingfish, swordfish, or tuna steaks), cut into thick pieces

Spice

2 tbsp black peppercorns, freshly and coarsely crushed
1 tsp fennel seeds
0.5 tsp turmeric
1 tsp red chilli powder
1 tsp coriander powder

Aromatics

2 large onions, thinly sliced
1 tbsp ginger, finely grated
6 piece garlic cloves, sliced
20 piece fresh curry leaves

Tempering

1 tsp black mustard seeds

Souring Agent

1 tbsp tamarind paste dissolved in 3 tbsp water

Cooking

3 tbsp coconut oil

Seasoning

1 tsp salt

Method

Marinate the fish: combine turmeric, half the crushed pepper, chilli powder, and ½ tsp salt with the fish pieces. Toss to coat and set aside for 15–20 minutes.
Heat 2 tbsp coconut oil in a wide, heavy pan (clay pot is ideal). Add mustard seeds and let them pop, then add curry leaves.
Add the sliced onions and cook over medium heat for 12 minutes until golden and translucent. Add ginger, garlic, and fennel seeds and cook for 2 more minutes.
Add coriander powder, the remaining crushed pepper, and the tamarind water. Stir and cook for 3 minutes.
Add the marinated fish in a single layer. Do not stir: let the fish cook undisturbed for 4–5 minutes on each side. The sauce should be fairly dry and coating the fish.
Taste for salt. Finish with a drizzle of raw coconut oil over the top just before serving.

Notes

Serve with kappa (tapioca/cassava) or white rice. Kingfish (seer fish, or neymeen in Malayalam) is the most traditional choice on the Malabar Coast: its firm, meaty texture holds up well to the strong spicing. The clay pot makes a real difference to the flavour if you have one.

The Gastrographer

Name: Kerala black pepper fish curry
Prep time: 15 min
Cook time: 25 min
Total time: 40 min
Yield: 4
Cuisine: India
Ingredients: 700 g firm white fish (kingfish, swordfish, or tuna steaks), cut into thick pieces; 2 tbsp black peppercorns, freshly and coarsely crushed; 1 tsp fennel seeds; 0.5 tsp turmeric; 1 tsp red chilli powder; 1 tsp coriander powder; 2 large onions, thinly sliced; 1 tbsp ginger, finely grated; 6 piece garlic cloves, sliced; 20 piece fresh curry leaves; 1 tsp black mustard seeds; 1 tbsp tamarind paste dissolved in 3 tbsp water; 3 tbsp coconut oil; 1 tsp salt

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Journey Point Map Key

Ingredient originTrade or transit route

Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control