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the Malay raw salad from the pomelo's own homeland: flesh broken into dry sacs, tossed with toasted coconut, dried shrimp, shallot, and lime, and bound with nothing at all
Origin: Malaysia
From the journey of Pomelo.
Kerabu is the Malay family of raw salads, close kin to the Thai yam and the Vietnamese gỏi, and built on the same four-part structure: something fresh and bulky, something salty and fermented, something hot, and something sour. Limau bali is the pomelo, and this is the dish made where the fruit is native, which gives it a certain claim to being the original of the whole family. The Malay name is a small puzzle. Limau bali means Bali lime, though the fruit is not distinctively Balinese and Citrus maxima grows wild across the whole archipelago. The epithet appears to mark it out as the large one or the foreign one rather than to record where it came from, in the way that many languages attach a distant place-name to whatever is oversized. What separates kerabu from its Thai and Vietnamese relations is kerisik, coconut toasted dark and then pounded until its own oil comes out and it collapses into a coarse, damp, intensely nutty paste. It is not the same thing as toasted desiccated coconut and it cannot be replaced by it: kerisik carries a roasted depth that sits underneath the whole salad, and it thickens the dressing very slightly without any other binder. Dried shrimp, pounded to a floss, does the salty work that fish sauce does elsewhere.
Grapefruit will not work: its juice sacs are thin and wet and collapse under the dressing, where the pomelo's stay dry and separate. Kerisik keeps a fortnight in a sealed jar and is worth making in quantity, since it is used throughout Malay cooking, in rendang above all. If dried shrimp are unobtainable, use two teaspoons of fish sauce, though the texture will be different. Common additions are shredded poached chicken, flaked grilled fish, or crisp fried anchovies. Serve as one dish amongst several with rice, in the Malay manner, rather than as a course on its own.
To explore — select an ingredient below.
To explore — select an ingredient below · click any location dot on the map for recipes and stories · browse the information panel on the right · trace the full journey on the timeline.
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