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The Marwari desert dish of dried caper berries and khejri pods, cooked in mustard oil with chilli and yoghurt
Origin: Jodhpur & Marwar, Rajasthan, India
From the journey of Caper.
Ker sangri is what a cuisine looks like when there are no vegetables. Marwar, the desert country around Jodhpur and Jaisalmer, has little rain, no reliable green crop, and long stretches of the year when nothing fresh can be had at all, and the Marwari kitchen was built accordingly on things that keep: pulses, buttermilk, clarified butter, red chilli, and the dried fruits of the desert scrub. Two of those fruits make this dish. Ker is the small round berry of Capparis decidua, a leafless spiny caper bush that photosynthesises through its green twigs; it is picked green, dried, and stored, and it is intensely sour and slightly bitter. Sangri is the long thin pod of the khejri tree, Prosopis cineraria, the state tree of Rajasthan and a plant so central to desert life that the Bishnoi community famously died defending a grove of them in 1730. The pods are dried too, and are chewy and faintly sweet where the ker is sour. Both must be soaked, and the soaking is the whole difficulty of the dish. Dried ker is hard as gravel and carries a bitterness that has to be drawn out over many hours and several changes of water; skipped or shortened, the finished dish is unpleasantly harsh. Traditional households soak overnight in salted water or in buttermilk, which softens and sweetens at once. What goes with them is equally a product of the place. Mustard oil, whole red chillies, and a dry masala, with yoghurt rather than water to loosen it, because in a desert the animal was closer than the well. There is no onion and no garlic in the orthodox Marwari version, which reflects both the Jain and Vaishnav influence on Rajasthani vegetarian cooking and the simple fact that neither grew easily here. It keeps for days without refrigeration, which is why it travelled with traders and armies across the Thar, and it is served at weddings and festivals as a point of regional pride. Eaten with bajra millet roti and a spoonful of ghee, it is the defining plate of the Rajasthani desert.
Ker and sangri are sold dried by Rajasthani and North Indian grocers and online, usually together as a mixed packet, sometimes as part of panchkuta, the five desert ingredients that also include kumatiya, gunda, and dried red chilli. There is no substitute for either; capers from a jar are a different species, differently prepared, and will not work. The dish keeps for three or four days at room temperature and up to a week refrigerated, and it genuinely improves on the second day. That keeping quality is not incidental but the reason the dish exists, and it is why it was carried across the desert by traders and by armies. The orthodox Marwari version has no onion and no garlic, reflecting Jain and Vaishnav practice in Rajasthani vegetarian cooking. Non-orthodox households add both, and some add a spoonful of jaggery against the sourness. Serve with bajra ki roti, the millet flatbread of the region, a bowl of buttermilk, and a spoonful of ghee. It is also excellent cold, straight from the pot, which is how a good deal of it is actually eaten.
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