Kentish Cherry Pie

dark summer cherries baked beneath a sugared double crust until the juices run thick and ruby, the cherry pie of the Kent orchards, the Garden of England

Origin: United Kingdom

From the journey of Cherry.

The Romans first brought the cherry to Britain, but it was in Tudor times that England made it its own, when Richard Harris, fruiterer to Henry VIII, planted great orchards of cherry stock at Teynham in Kent around 1533. From that planting grew the cherry country of England: Kent, the Garden of England, whose blossom-white orchards and summer harvests gave the cherry to barrows, fairs, and farmhouse kitchens for four centuries. The Kentish way with the cherry was the pie, a deep double-crust pie of dark summer cherries beneath a sugar-crusted lid, the fruit baked until soft and the juices run thick, dark, and ruby. It is high-summer baking at its most straightforward and most satisfying, eaten warm with cream or custard, and it is the English ancestor of the American cherry pie that crossed the Atlantic with the colonists. A traditional Kentish touch is a little ground almond or a few crushed cherry stones in the filling, echoing the fruit's natural kinship with the almond, and the pie is sometimes served with the thick yellow cream of the West Country.

Ingredients

The Pastry

  • 350 g plain flour
  • 200 g cold butter, cubed
  • 2 tbsp sugar (plus extra to glaze)
  • 1 pinch salt
  • 4 tbsp cold water, approximately

The Filling

  • 800 g cherries, stoned (sweet, sour, or a mix)
  • 100 g sugar (more for sweet cherries, less for sour)
  • 2 tbsp cornflour
  • 1 tbsp lemon juice

To Finish

  • 1 egg, beaten, to glaze

Method

  1. Make the pastry: rub the cold butter into the flour, sugar, and salt until it resembles breadcrumbs, then bind with just enough cold water to form a dough. Divide in two, wrap, and chill for 30 minutes.
  2. Toss the stoned cherries with the sugar, cornflour, and lemon juice.
  3. Roll out one piece of pastry and line a pie dish. Pile in the cherry filling, doming it slightly in the centre.
  4. Roll the second piece of pastry for the lid, lay it over, trim, and crimp the edges to seal. Cut a few slits to vent, brush with beaten egg, and sprinkle with sugar.
  5. Bake at 190°C for 40 to 45 minutes, until the crust is deep golden and the juices bubble through the vents. Cool for at least 20 minutes before serving.

Notes

Kent cherries were traditionally sweet dessert cherries, but a mix of sweet and sour, or all Morellos with extra sugar, makes the best-flavoured pie. A spoonful of ground almonds in the base soaks up juice and echoes the cherry's almond note. Frozen cherries work; toss them with an extra spoonful of cornflour to manage the extra liquid.

The Gastrographer

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