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The Cycladic spread of pounded caper leaves and buds with onion, vinegar, and island olive oil
Origin: Santorini & Tinos, the Cyclades, Greece
From the journey of Caper.
The Cyclades do something with the caper that almost nowhere else bothers to do: they eat the whole bush. The buds are pickled as capers are everywhere, the caperberries are pickled after them, and the young shoots and leaves, kaparofylla, are stripped from the stem in spring, brined, and treated as a vegetable in their own right. A single plant clinging to a terrace wall yields three separate foods across a season. Kaparosalata is what the leaves are chiefly for. The brined shoots and buds are pounded or chopped coarse with raw onion, olive oil, and vinegar into a rough green spread, somewhere between a salad and a relish, and eaten on bread as a meze with ouzo or the island wine. Versions differ from island to island and from house to house: Tinos tends to keep it very plain, Santorini often works in a little of the local tomato or a spoonful of fava, and some households add capers alone where others insist the leaves are the point. The geography explains the dish. These are volcanic islands with almost no fresh water, thin soil, a salt wind, and a ferocious summer, conditions that are ruinous for most crops and are precisely what the caper wants. On Santorini the bushes grow along the dry-stone terrace walls above the vines, so the island's two protected products come off the same slope. In a place with very few green vegetables, a plant that produces edible leaves out of bare pumice is not a curiosity but a resource. The one thing that cannot be rushed is the salt. Brined caper leaves are aggressively salty and need soaking and tasting before anything else happens; the dish is seasoned, if at all, at the very end.
Brined caper leaves are sold by Greek grocers and online, usually from Santorini, Tinos, or Crete. If none can be found, the dish can be made with capers and caperberries alone at about 250 g in total, which is closer to a caper relish than a true kaparosalata but is very good on its own terms. It keeps for four or five days in the refrigerator under a film of olive oil, and the flavour settles and improves after the first day. Santorini serves it alongside fava, the island's yellow split pea purée, and the two together with a tomato fritter make the standard Cycladic first course. On Tinos it goes onto paximadi, the twice-baked barley rusk, briefly dampened so it softens. Do not add salt until the very end and taste twice before you do. Everything in this dish arrives already salted.
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