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The Swedish beef stew that is beef, onion, bay, and a great many whole allspice berries
Origin: Sweden
From the journey of Allspice.
Kalops is one of Sweden's oldest surviving everyday dishes and one of the plainest, and it exists to demonstrate what allspice does. There are four things in it: beef, onion, bay, and kryddpeppar. No wine, no tomato, no stock cube, no herbs beyond the bay, and nothing to hide behind. The beef is a cheap cut browned and then simmered for two hours or more with the onions until the connective tissue has gone to gelatine, and the whole aromatic character of the finished dish comes from a small handful of whole allspice berries dropped in at the start. The word comes from the English collops, meaning slices of meat, and arrived in Swedish in the eighteenth century, which places the dish squarely in the period when allspice was becoming cheap and general across northern Europe. That is not a coincidence. Clove and nutmeg were luxuries; allspice tasted of both and, once Jamaica was producing at scale under British control, cost a fraction as much. A great deal of Nordic cooking that reads as clove-scented is allspice-scented and always was. The berries go in whole and stay whole, and Swedes eat around them rather than straining them out. Ground allspice does not work here: it clouds the sauce, gives up everything in the first ten minutes, and leaves nothing for the second hour. It is served with boiled potatoes and pickled beetroot, and the beetroot is not optional. Its sweet-sour sharpness is what the dish is balanced against.
Whole berries only. Ground allspice gives everything up in the first ten minutes and turns the sauce muddy. Chuck or shin, not a lean cut. The dish depends on connective tissue turning to gelatine. Some recipes add a splash of vinegar at the end, which is a Skåne habit and worth trying. It is better on the second day and freezes well. Serve with boiled potatoes and pickled beetroot, and nothing else. Kalops is husmanskost, everyday home cooking, and dressing it up misses the point.
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