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Rajshahi flatbreads of black gram and rice flour slapped out by hand and baked on a clay griddle, served with a fiery bharta of chilli, onion, and mustard oil
Origin: Chapai Nawabganj & Rajshahi, Bangladesh
From the journey of Black Gram.
Kalai ruti is the bread of Chapai Nawabganj and Rajshahi, in the north-west of Bangladesh: a thick, slightly chewy, pale grey flatbread made mostly from mashkalai, black gram flour, with some rice flour, patted out by hand rather than rolled, and baked on a shallow earthenware griddle over a wood or straw fire. It is eaten hot, usually on a winter morning or evening, with a bharta of crushed green or dried chillies, raw onion, salt, and mustard oil, and often with a beef or duck curry. The region is the old Varendra, the high, dry red-soil tract north of the Padma, and it grows black gram where the lower, wetter delta grows rice. The bread belongs to that country, and for most of its history it was a village food. Over the past decade or so kalai ruti stalls have opened in Dhaka and other cities, and it has become a regional speciality that people in Rajshahi are proud to see outside it. The skill is in the hands. The dough is soft and has almost no gluten, so it cannot be rolled; the maker slaps it back and forth between wet palms into a round, and lays it on the hot clay. The clay griddle, the khola, gives it the faintly smoky, dry-baked surface that a metal pan does not.
Mashkalai flour is sold in Bangladeshi grocers; urad dal flour from an Indian grocer is the same pulse and works well. Kalai ruti is best eaten hot. It firms up quickly as it cools. Other bhartas served with it include aubergine, tomato, and dried fish.
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