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The Ilonggo soup of pigeon peas, pork, and green jackfruit, soured with batwan until the broth turns a faint purple
Origin: Iloilo & the Western Visayas, Philippines
From the journey of Pigeon Pea.
KBL stands for kadyos, baboy, kag langka, 'pigeon peas, pork, and jackfruit', and it is the best-loved dish of the Hiligaynon-speaking Ilonggo people of Iloilo and the Western Visayas. Dried kadyos, the dark pigeon peas of the region, are simmered with pork hock or belly until tender, then cooked with chunks of unripe jackfruit, and the broth is soured with batwan, the fruit of Garcinia binucao, a tree almost confined to the Western Visayas whose gentle sourness is softer than tamarind's. The kadyos turn the broth a faint, dusky purple, which is how an Ilonggo recognises the real thing. It is the dish Ilonggos living away from home miss most, because batwan and the right kadyos are hard to find outside the region, and it is the one most often requested when an Ilonggo host lays on a meal for guests.
Fresh batwan is rarely found outside the Visayas; frozen batwan is sold in some Filipino groceries. Tamarind or kamias make a good substitute, though the sourness is sharper. Smoked pork or pork with its skin gives the richest broth. The purple colour depends on dark kadyos; paler pigeon peas give a brown broth.
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