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Sweden's irresistible temptation: a gratin of potato matchsticks and sweet-spiced Swedish anchovies buried under onions and cream, baked until bubbling and golden: the dish that has anchored the Swedish smörgåsbord and Christmas julbord for over a century, named for a man who could not resist it
Origin: Sweden
From the journey of Potato.
Janssons frestelse, Jansson's Temptation, is one of the most beloved dishes in Swedish cuisine and a fixture of the Christmas julbord (Christmas smörgåsbord). Its origin story is disputed: the most popular attribution is to Pelle Janzon (1844–1889), a Swedish opera singer and gourmand famous for his devotion to food despite professing religious asceticism; his inability to resist this dish was supposedly the 'temptation' of the name. An alternative attribution links it to the early 20th century Swedish-American film industry. Regardless of origin, the dish has been central to Swedish home cooking since at least the 1920s, documented in major Swedish cookbooks from the 1930s. The key ingredient is not ordinary anchovy but Swedish pickled sprats (Sprattus sprattus) preserved in a sweet-spiced brine with allspice, cloves, and cinnamon; sold in Sweden as 'ansjovis'; which is completely different from the salt-packed Mediterranean anchovy. Swedish ansjovis is mildly salty, sweet, fragrant, and complex, and it dissolves into the cream during baking, giving the gratin a savoury depth that regular anchovy cannot replicate. Outside Sweden, Scandinavia, and Baltic countries, this specific product can be difficult to find; the preparation can be approximated with regular anchovies augmented with allspice and a small amount of sugar.
Swedish 'ansjovis' (the pickled sprats sold for this dish) should not be confused with the Italian or Spanish anchovy packed in salt or oil. They are completely different products: the Swedish product is a sprat (Sprattus sprattus) preserved in a sweet-acidic brine with allspice, cloves, cinnamon, and sugar, which gives it a mildly salty, sweet, and aromatic character. The confusion leads many cooks outside Scandinavia to over-salt their Janssons frestelse by using regular anchovies at the same quantity. If using regular anchovies, use half the quantity specified and add a pinch of allspice and sugar to compensate for the absent sweet-spice brine.
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