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Swedish pickled herring in a sweet-sour brine of vinegar, sugar, and whole allspice
Origin: Sweden
From the journey of Allspice.
The Baltic herring built medieval northern Europe, and the pickle jar is what made it keep. Herring was the great protein of the North and Baltic seas, salted in barrels and traded across the whole of northern Europe by the Hanseatic League; the wealth of Lübeck and of the Scanian markets was built on it. Inlagd sill is what became of that trade in the domestic kitchen: salt herring soaked to remove most of the cure, then laid in a brine of vinegar, sugar, and whole spices. The spice mixture is fixed and short. Allspice, white peppercorns, bay, and red onion, with dill in some versions and mustard seed in others. Allspice does the aromatic work, and it is the reason a Swedish pickled herring does not taste like a Dutch or a German one. The technique that matters is the two-stage brine, or rather the fact that the fish is never cooked. It is cured, soaked, and then pickled cold, and the acid does the rest. Getting the soak right is the whole skill: too short and the fish is inedibly salty, too long and it goes flabby and tastes of nothing. It anchors three Swedish tables. Midsommar in June, the julbord at Christmas, and any smörgåsbord worth the name, always served cold with boiled new potatoes, soured cream, chives, sharp cheese, crispbread, and a schnapps. In Sweden the first course of a festive meal is almost always herring, and the rest of the meal follows from it.
Salt-cured herring is sold by Scandinavian, Polish, and Baltic grocers, usually in tubs. Matjes-cured herring is already mild and needs only an hour's soak, or none. Swedish 12 per cent ättika is stronger than ordinary vinegar. If using standard 6 per cent white vinegar, use half again as much and reduce the water. It keeps two to three weeks refrigerated and is best after four or five days. Senapssill is the mustard version and löksill the onion-heavy one; both start from this brine. Serve with boiled new potatoes, soured cream, chives, mature cheese, crispbread, and schnapps, as part of a midsummer or Christmas table.
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