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the Garifuna plate of green and ripe plantains pounded together in a wooden mortar, served with fish poached in a coconut and basil broth
Origin: Dangriga & the Garifuna Coast
From the journey of Banana.
Hudut is the pounded plantain, and the fish broth served with it is falmou; the two are always eaten together and the whole plate is generally called by the first word. Green plantains and ripe ones are boiled separately and then pounded in a tall wooden mortar, the hana, with a long pestle, and the proportion of green to ripe is the cook's signature: more green gives a firmer, starchier mash, more ripe gives a sweeter and softer one. The pounding is done by two people working alternate strokes into the same mortar, which is both practical, because the mash is heavy and stiff, and social, because it is done in the yard where everyone can see. A rhythm develops and it is not incidental: Garifuna drumming and the pounding of hudut are closely associated, and the sound of a mortar in a Dangriga yard on a Sunday carries a long way. The Garifuna are the descendants of shipwrecked and marooned West Africans and Kalinago people from St Vincent, deported by the British to Roatán in 1797 and dispersed along the coast from Belize to Nicaragua. Their language, drumming, and dance were inscribed by UNESCO in 2001, and their food travelled the same route: African pounded-starch technique applied to a Southeast Asian plant on a Central American coast, with fish from the Caribbean in a coconut broth. Very little else in the Americas has quite that combination of parents. The broth is coconut milk with garlic, onion, and a great deal of basil, cut with lime and thickened only by reduction. Snapper is the usual fish and it is poached whole in the pot, on the bone, since the bones are what make the falmou taste of anything.
The ratio of green to ripe plantain is the whole character of the dish: three to two gives a firm, faintly sweet mash, and cooks adjust it freely. Pound it hot and by hand; a processor makes it gluey. Never boil coconut milk, which splits. The habanero goes in whole and comes out whole. Basil rather than coriander, and a great deal of it, added off the heat. Snapper on the bone is correct and gives the broth its body, though thick fillets work if the poaching time is cut to five minutes.
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