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the South African no-bake classic: layers of tennis biscuits under a set filling of condensed milk, cream, and tart granadilla pulp, chilled rather than baked
Origin: South Africa
From the journey of Passion Fruit.
South Africans call the passion fruit the granadilla, from the Spanish for 'little pomegranate', and it has been a fixture of gardens and kitchens across the country since colonial horticulture brought the vine at the turn of the twentieth century. The fridge tart, or koelkastterte, is one of the most characteristic forms of South African home baking: a dessert built in layers in a dish and set in the refrigerator rather than the oven, which suits a hot climate and a domestic tradition founded on the tin of sweetened condensed milk. Biscuits (the rectangular, coconut-flecked tennis biscuit is the canonical choice) are layered with a filling of condensed milk beaten with cream and something sharp, and left overnight, during which the biscuits soften into something close to sponge. Granadilla is the sharp element par excellence: intensely acidic and powerfully perfumed, it cuts the richness of the condensed milk in a way that nothing else quite manages, and its black seeds speckle the pale filling. Made for Sunday lunches, braais, and church bring-and-shares, the granadilla fridge tart is a dessert of pure practicality and pure nostalgia, and it appears in almost every South African family recipe book.
Tinned granadilla pulp, sold throughout southern Africa, is entirely traditional here and many households use nothing else; fresh fruit gives a brighter flavour and better seeds. Adjust the lemon juice to the sharpness of the fruit, keeping in mind that the acid is doing structural work as well as flavouring. The same method makes the country's other beloved fridge tarts with peppermint crisp, lemon, or pineapple, and the filling alone, spooned into glasses, makes a quick granadilla pudding.
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