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Italian fennel bulbs braised until sweet, laid under béchamel and parmesan, and baked until the top blisters
Origin: Florence, Bologna & Northern Italy
From the journey of Fennel.
This is the dish that turned fennel from a spice into a vegetable for most of the world. Once Italian growers had selected a bulb worth eating, the question was what to do with it, and the answer arrived from the north: braise it, cover it in béchamel and grated cheese, and put it under a hot oven until the surface blisters. It is a contorno, a side dish, and it belongs to the Sunday table and to the winter. Cooking is what makes fennel sweet. Raw, the bulb is crisp, watery, and assertively aniseed; braised or roasted, the aniseed recedes and a genuine sugar comes forward, because the same long gentle heat that softens the fibres also breaks down some of the inulin the bulb stores. A fennel that has been boiled briefly and drained tastes of very little, whereas one cooked slowly in butter and its own liquid tastes of something quite different from what went into the pan. The béchamel is northern Italian rather than French despite the name, or at least the argument about who had it first is old and unresolved: Italians credit a Florentine salsa colla carried to France by Catherine de' Medici's cooks in the sixteenth century, and the French credit Louis de Béchameil at the court of Louis XIV. The Medici story is repeated everywhere and rests on very little, and the sauce is probably older than either claim. The fennel bulb travelled with Italian emigration and is now sold as a salad vegetable in countries that have never used the seed, which makes this one of the more successful pieces of vegetable breeding in European history: a plant selected in Tuscany and Emilia in the sixteenth century and on supermarket shelves worldwide by the twentieth.
Cut through the root so the quarters hold their shape, and braise properly rather than blanching; the sweetness is made in the pan, not in the oven. Cook off any braising liquid before the béchamel goes on, since a wet gratin is a thin one. Warm the milk before it meets the roux, which makes a smooth sauce far easier. The fronds are worth keeping and scattering at the end for the fresh note against a rich dish. Sliced prosciutto or a little pancetta laid between the fennel and the sauce is a common variation and turns the dish from a side into a main.
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