To explore — select an ingredient below.
To explore — select an ingredient below · click any location dot on the map for recipes and stories · browse the information panel on the right · trace the full journey on the timeline.
Journey Point Map Key
the hazelnut marzipan of the Turkish Black Sea: roasted Giresun hazelnuts ground and kneaded with sugar syrup into a dense, fragrant paste, rolled into logs and sliced or shaped into rounds
Origin: Turkey
From the journey of Hazelnut.
Turkish has a whole family of dishes called ezme, from the verb meaning to crush or to pound, and they run from the fiery tomato-and-pepper relish of the kebab house to the sweet nut pastes of the confectioner. Fındık ezmesi belongs to the sweet branch: it is the hazelnut counterpart of badem ezmesi, the Turkish almond marzipan, and it is made in exactly the same way, by grinding roasted nuts and working them with sugar into a dense, smooth, mouldable paste. Where marzipan belongs to Europe's almond countries, fındık ezmesi belongs to the Black Sea coast, the ancient Pontus, whose terraced groves at Ordu, Giresun, and Trabzon produce the majority of all the hazelnuts grown on earth. It is the region's own answer to the question of what to do with its harvest when it is not sending it to the chocolate factories of Europe, and it tastes powerfully and unambiguously of the nut, without the chocolate that dominates the hazelnut elsewhere. Sold in slabs and logs at every confectioner and roadside stall along the coast, it is the classic edible souvenir of a journey to the Black Sea, pressed on departing guests and carried home to family, and it is served in thin slices with tea.
The proportion of sugar to nut decides the character: this ratio gives a firm, sliceable, strongly nutty paste, whilst the commercial versions sold along the coast are often sweeter and softer, and many add milk powder or glucose for a paler, creamier result. Toast the nuts properly and skin them well, as the papery skins are bitter and would speck the paste. Some Black Sea confectioners scent the paste with a little vanilla, and a version rolled in cocoa or dipped in dark chocolate is common in modern shops, though the plain hazelnut paste is the traditional one.
To explore — select an ingredient below.
To explore — select an ingredient below · click any location dot on the map for recipes and stories · browse the information panel on the right · trace the full journey on the timeline.
Journey Point Map Key