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Yucatecan turkey in a sour broth built on charred chilli, bitter orange, and a great deal of allspice
Origin: Valladolid, Yucatán, Mexico
From the journey of Allspice.
The name misleads. This is not the vinegar-pickled escabeche of Spain, and oriental here means eastern in the strictly local sense: the east of the Yucatán peninsula, around the town of Valladolid, which claims the dish. What it is instead is turkey poached and then charred, served in a sour, clear, aromatic broth built on a recado, one of the wet spice pastes that hold the whole Yucatecan kitchen together. Yucatán grinds its spices on the metate into a paste rather than sprinkling them dry, and the pastes are named by colour: recado rojo red with achiote, recado negro black with burnt chilli, and the recado blanco or de escabeche that this dish takes, pale and dominated by allspice, black pepper, and oregano. Allspice is native here. The peninsula sits inside the wild range of Pimenta dioica, and Mexico calls the berry pimienta gorda, fat pepper, a name that distinguishes it from the black peppercorn beside it in the same paste. Its presence in Yucatecan cooking is not a colonial import but a continuity: the Maya were using it long before any recado had a Spanish name. The sourness comes from naranja agria, the bitter Seville orange, which is the Yucatecan acid of choice and does something neither lemon nor vinegar manages. Its juice is sharp and faintly resinous, and against the allspice it produces the particular sour-warm balance that makes the dish recognisable.
Bitter orange (naranja agria) is sold by Latin American grocers and frozen juice is entirely acceptable. The orange and lime substitute gets close but lacks the faint resinous edge. Chile xcatic is a pale yellow Yucatecan chilli, mild and aromatic. Banana peppers or Hungarian wax peppers are the nearest substitute. Chicken works throughout and needs about 35 minutes rather than an hour. Mexican oregano is a different plant from Mediterranean oregano (Lippia graveolens rather than Origanum vulgare) and is more citrus-scented. It matters here. Serve with tortillas, pickled red onion, and habanero salsa on the table.
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