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Azerbaijan's tiny lamb dumplings in clear broth, small enough that a good cook fits eight or ten on a spoon, finished with dried mint and vinegar
Origin: Baku & Azerbaijan
From the journey of Wheat.
Dushbara is judged on size, and the standard is unforgiving. The dumplings are meant to be small enough that eight or ten sit on a soup spoon at once, which means squares of dough about two centimetres across, folded around a filling measured in grains rather than spoonfuls. Azerbaijani grandmothers are said to have been assessed as brides on how many they could fit in the bowl, and whether or not that was ever literally true, the standard it describes is real: a coarse dushbara is a failure however good the broth. The broth is the other half and it is deliberately austere. Lamb on the bone is simmered and skimmed until the liquid runs clear, seasoned with little beyond salt, and the dumplings are boiled in it at the last moment so the starch clouds it very slightly and no more. Anything that muddies the bowl, including boiling too hard, counts against it. What arrives at the table is a set of additions rather than a finished dish. Dried mint crushed between the palms, a splash of wine or grape vinegar sharpened with crushed garlic, and sometimes a dusting of sumac go into each bowl by the eater, and the balance of those three is a matter of personal habit. The dried mint in particular is not optional in any Azerbaijani household. The dish belongs to the whole Azerbaijani-speaking world rather than to the republic alone. It is cooked in Iranian Azerbaijan as düşbərə and in Tabriz kitchens, the border between the two having been drawn by the Russo-Persian treaties of 1813 and 1828, long after the dumpling. Its relatives run west to Turkish mantı and east to Central Asian chuchvara, and the family resemblance is obvious once the sizes are lined up.
Small is the whole point, and there is no way to shortcut it: 2cm squares, a lentil-sized filling, and dough rolled until it is translucent. Make them in bulk and freeze them raw on a tray, which is what Azerbaijani households do, and cook them from frozen with a minute added. Keep the broth at a bare tremble at every stage, since a hard boil clouds it and clouding is the fault everyone notices. The dried mint and the garlic vinegar go in at the table rather than in the pot, so each person sets their own balance.
To explore — select an ingredient below.
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