To explore — select an ingredient below.
To explore — select an ingredient below · click any location dot on the map for recipes and stories · browse the information panel on the right · trace the full journey on the timeline.
Journey Point Map Key
The roadside drink of the Coachella Valley, Medjool dates blended with vanilla ice cream and cold milk until the fruit disappears into a thick, malty, caramel-coloured shake
Origin: Indio, Coachella Valley, California, USA
From the journey of Date.
The Coachella Valley sits below sea level in the Colorado Desert of southern California, and it is one of very few places outside the Old World hot and dry enough to ripen a date. From the 1890s the United States Department of Agriculture sent plant explorers to North Africa and the Gulf to find varieties for it. Deglet Noor offshoots came from the Algerian Ziban around 1900. The decisive shipment came in 1927, when eleven Medjool offshoots were taken out of Bou Denib in Morocco ahead of the bayoud fungus that was destroying the Maghrebi groves, quarantined, and planted in the desert. Essentially the whole commercial Medjool crop of the Americas and Israel descends from those eleven plants. The date shake came out of the roadside date gardens that grew up along what is now Highway 111, selling fruit to passing motorists from the 1920s and 1930s. It is a wholly American answer to a glut of soft fruit and a hot road: dates blended with vanilla ice cream and milk until the fruit has dissolved entirely, giving a drink that tastes of caramel and malt and nothing much like a date. The valley built a small and distinctly odd culture around the crop. The Indio date gardens advertised themselves with Arabian Nights theming from the 1920s, and the county fair still does. The shake is what survived, and it is now a genuine regional dish: ordered by name, sold at half a dozen well-known stands, and made at home across the desert towns. It also happens to be the best possible demonstration of what a Medjool is. Blended, it thickens a drink the way no other fruit does, because a soft date is roughly three quarters sugar by weight and holds enough fibre to give body as well.
The salt is not a modern flourish. A pinch of it sharpens the caramel note in the date sugar considerably and the shake tastes flat without it. Medjool is the correct date and the whole point of the drink. A dry Deglet Nour will not blend smooth and gives a thin, gritty result. For a dairy-free version, blend the dates with oat milk and use a good vanilla oat-milk ice cream. The texture holds up better than it has any right to. A date shake and a banana date shake are both sold along Highway 111. Half a frozen banana in place of two of the dates is the standard variation.
To explore — select an ingredient below.
To explore — select an ingredient below · click any location dot on the map for recipes and stories · browse the information panel on the right · trace the full journey on the timeline.
Journey Point Map Key