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Boiled ackee simmered briefly in a Jamaican curry of onion, garlic, thyme, scallion, and Scotch bonnet, and eaten with white rice
Origin: Jamaica
From the journey of Ackee.
Two of Jamaica's migrations meet in this pot. The ackee came from West Africa in 1778, on a slave ship. Curry came after emancipation, with the indentured labourers recruited in India to work the sugar estates: the first of them, 261 men, women, and children, landed at Old Harbour Bay from the Blundell Hunter on 10 May 1845, a date Jamaica now marks as Indian Arrival Day, and some 36,000 had come in all by the time the scheme ended in 1912. Curry became a Jamaican flavour, in curry goat above all, and the ackee was drawn into it; Julia Morton, describing the fruit in 1987, noted that the arils 'are curried and eaten with rice'. The curry here is a Jamaican one, built on a commercial curry powder fried in oil until it darkens and smells toasted, and then softened with onion, garlic, thyme, scallion, and the heat of a Scotch bonnet. The ackee goes in last and needs only a few minutes in the sauce: it is already cooked, and it is soft enough to break if it is stirred hard. The result is mild, golden, and rich, and white rice is the right partner for it. The ackee must be ripe. Gather only pods that have opened on the tree, remove every seed and every trace of pink membrane, and throw away the water in which the arils are boiled.
Use a Jamaican curry powder if you can find one; the blends differ from brand to brand, so add it by the spoonful and taste. The curry can be made ahead up to the point of adding the ackee, which should go in only when you are ready to eat.
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