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the blackcurrant liqueur of Dijon: whole fresh berries crushed and macerated in spirit for two months, never distilled, then pressed and sweetened heavily so the raw fruit's colour and scent survive whole
Origin: France
From the journey of Currant.
Blackcurrants have been grown on the Côte-d'Or since the sixteenth century, valued at first as a medicine rather than a food; an anonymous treatise of 1712 credited the leaf and the fruit with curing very nearly everything, and the resulting enthusiasm filled the poorer Burgundian slopes and the ground between the vines with cassissiers. In 1841 a Dijon liquoriste, Auguste-Denis Lagoute, found the method that made the fruit famous, and its cleverness lies in what it does not do. He did not distil the berries. He steeped them whole in alcohol and then sweetened the strained infusion very heavily, so that the liqueur keeps the colour, the aroma, and the tannic bite of the raw fruit entire, which no distillate can. Crème de cassis remains a maceration to this day, and the word crème refers not to dairy but to the French legal category of liqueurs carrying at least 250 grams of sugar to the litre; the Dijon style carries far more. That density is precisely the point, since it is what allows a small measure to colour and flavour an entire glass of wine in a Kir. The cassis de Dijon is protected by a geographical indication, and it gave its name, incidentally, to one of the foundational judgments of European single-market law.
The sugar is not adjustable downwards by much: at less than 400 g per litre the result is a blackcurrant-flavoured spirit rather than a crème, and it will not do its work in a Kir, where a thick, sweet, heavily coloured liqueur is needed to stand up to a whole glass of wine. Frozen blackcurrants macerate very well and in fact release their juice more readily, the freezing having burst the cells; use them straight from the freezer. The same method makes crème de mûre from blackberries and crème de framboise from raspberries. Beyond the Kir, cassis is poured over vanilla ice cream, stirred into the pan juices of duck and game, splashed into sparkling wine for a Kir Royal, and used to make a very good sorbet.
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