Cornish saffron bun

Cornish enriched yeasted bun with saffron, currants and mixed peel

Origin: Kingdom of England, Cornwall

From the journey of Saffron.

The Cornish saffron bun is one of the oldest surviving regional baked goods in England: a direct descendant of the medieval English tradition of enriched breads coloured with saffron, which itself derives from the commercial saffron cultivation established in England from the 14th century. The Essex town of Saffron Walden takes its name from the fields of saffron crocus grown commercially nearby; Cornwall's baking tradition with saffron is equally ancient, and far more alive. The Cornish saffron bun differs from the saffron cake (a loaf-shaped bake) in being individual and hand-shaped, enriched with both lard and butter in the traditional Cornish manner. Saffron was historically so valuable that it was used sparingly; but the Cornish tradition uses enough to colour the crumb a deep golden-yellow and scent it with saffron's distinctive floral-hay aroma. A curious historical footnote: Henry VIII reportedly forbade ladies of his court from dyeing their hair with saffron, suggesting the spice's cosmetic use was competing with its culinary one. The Cornish bun's connection to tin mining communities, carried underground for sustenance alongside a block of cold tea, gives it a particular working-class heritage that sits alongside the aristocratic associations of saffron elsewhere in the world.

Ingredients

Dough

  • 500 g strong white bread flour
  • 7 g fast-action dried yeast (1 sachet)
  • 50 g caster sugar
  • 1 tsp salt

Saffron

  • 1 generous pinch saffron threads (about 0.4g)

Liquid

  • 250 ml whole milk, warmed to hand temperature

Fat

  • 50 g unsalted butter, softened
  • 50 g lard, softened (or substitute an additional 50g butter)

Fruit

  • 150 g currants
  • 50 g mixed peel

Glaze

  • 1 egg, beaten, for glazing

Method

  1. The night before (or at least 2 hours ahead): steep the saffron threads in 50ml of the warm milk, mashing the threads gently with the back of a spoon. Leave to infuse: the longer the better. Overnight steeping produces a much more intensely coloured and flavoured bun than a 20-minute steep.
  2. In a large bowl, combine the flour, yeast, sugar, and salt. Mix together. Add the softened butter and lard. Using your fingertips, rub the fat into the flour until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Add the currants and mixed peel and mix through.
  3. Add the saffron milk (including all the threads) to the remaining warm milk. Pour most of the milk mixture into the flour. Mix to form a soft, slightly sticky dough, adding more milk as needed. Turn onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 8–10 minutes until smooth and elastic.
  4. Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl, cover with a clean cloth or cling film, and leave to rise in a warm place for 1–1.5 hours until doubled in size.
  5. Knock back the dough. Divide into 12 equal pieces. Shape each into a smooth ball or an oval bun shape. Place on two lined baking trays, leaving space between each bun for expansion. Cover loosely and prove for a further 30–45 minutes until noticeably puffed. Preheat the oven to 200°C (180°C fan). Brush each bun gently with beaten egg. Bake for 18–20 minutes until deep golden-brown. Cool on a wire rack. Serve split and buttered.
The Gastrographer

The Gastrographer

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Ingredient originTrade or transit route
Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control
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