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Kerala's taro boiled, then smeared with coconut oil and tossed with shallots, turmeric and curry leaves until the edges catch
Origin: Kochi, Kerala & the Malabar Coast
From the journey of Taro.
Mezhukkupuratti is a technique before it is a dish, and the word says so: it means smeared with oil, and it names an entire class of Kerala dry vegetable preparations in which something starchy is boiled first, then turned in coconut oil with shallots, turmeric, chilli, and curry leaves until the outsides colour. Raw banana, yam, and beans all take the treatment. Chembu, the taro corm, takes it best, because its floury surface catches and crisps in a way a wetter vegetable will not. Taro is an everyday vegetable in Kerala rather than an occasional one, and the language reflects how carefully the state distinguishes its tubers. Chembu is Colocasia esculenta. Chena is elephant foot yam, Amorphophallus paeoniifolius, a different genus with a different texture. Kaachil is a true yam, a Dioscorea. English flattens all three into yam and loses the distinctions that Malayalam keeps, and a Kerala cook asked to substitute one for another will explain at some length why that is not possible. The plant suits the place. Kerala's paddy bunds, backwater margins, and homestead corners are wet, shaded, and useless for most crops, and taro grows on them without attention. It is planted where nothing else will go, dug when it is wanted rather than at a harvest, and it appears in the weekly rotation of almost every household kitchen. The one discipline the dish requires is the one every taro cuisine arrives at independently. The corm is boiled thoroughly before it goes near the pan, and a little tamarind or a piece of kudampuli, the Malabar gambooge, frequently goes into that water. Undercooked taro will scratch the throat sharply, and the acid finishes what the boiling begins.
Boil the taro until it is entirely soft: the calcium oxalate crystals in an undercooked corm will burn the mouth and throat for hours, and the acid in the boiling water helps but does not replace the cooking time. Peel after boiling, not before, both for safety and because raw taro sap causes fierce itching on the hands. Use small round taro rather than the very large corms sold for slicing, and use coconut oil, since a neutral oil produces something recognisably not this dish. Kudampuli, the Malabar gambooge, is sold by Kerala grocers; tamarind is the usual substitute and works well.
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