Chana masala is one of the most widely eaten dishes on the Indian subcontinent: found in every dhaba (roadside restaurant), home kitchen, and street food stall from Punjab to Tamil Nadu. The dish is defined by its layered use of cumin: whole seeds bloomed in hot oil (the tadka), and ground cumin added with the other spices to build the masala base. Amchur (dried mango powder) provides the characteristic tang. Chickpeas have been cultivated in India since at least 3000 BCE, and cumin's presence in Harappan sites confirms this combination has ancient roots. The Punjab region, straddling modern India and Pakistan, developed the definitive version.
Ingredients
Chickpeas
800 g canned chickpeas (2 cans), drained and rinsed
Tadka
3 tbsp vegetable oil or ghee
1.5 tsp cumin seeds
Base
2 medium onions, finely diced
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 tsp fresh ginger, grated
2 medium tomatoes, finely chopped
Spices
1.5 tsp ground cumin
1.5 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp amchur (dried mango powder)
1 tsp garam masala
0.5 tsp turmeric
0.5 tsp chilli powder
to taste salt
Liquid
200 ml water
To serve
handful fresh coriander leaves, to garnish
Method
Heat the oil or ghee in a large pan over medium-high heat. Add the cumin seeds and let them splutter for 20–30 seconds until golden and fragrant. This is the tadka: the essential first step.
Add the diced onions and cook over medium heat for 12–15 minutes, stirring regularly, until deep golden brown. Properly caramelised onions are the flavour base of the entire dish.
Add the garlic and ginger and cook for 2 minutes. Add the chopped tomatoes and cook, stirring occasionally, for 8 minutes until the tomatoes have completely broken down into a thick paste.
Add the ground cumin, ground coriander, turmeric, chilli powder, and salt. Stir for 1 minute to cook out the raw spice flavour.
Add the drained chickpeas and the water. Stir well to combine. Bring to a simmer and cook uncovered for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens and the chickpeas are well coated.
Add the amchur (dried mango powder) and garam masala. Stir through and cook for 2 minutes more. Taste and adjust salt and amchur: the dish should be boldly spiced with a distinct tanginess.
Serve in a bowl scattered with fresh coriander. Eat with bhatura (deep-fried puffed bread) for the classic Punjabi chana bhatura combination, or with warm roti or rice.
Notes
Amchur (dried mango powder) is available at Indian grocery shops and online: it is worth seeking out as it gives chana masala its distinctive sour note. A squeeze of lemon is a reasonable substitute. For a restaurant-style dark colour, cook the onions even longer and add a pinch of black cardamom powder with the spices.
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