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A New Zealand dish born of an accident of history: a leg of lamb studded with garlic and roasted under a thick mantle of wild thyme, the herb that escaped a gold miner's garden in the 1860s and now covers the schist hills of Central Otago, glazed at the end with the region's dark wild thyme honey
Origin: Central Otago, New Zealand
From the journey of Thyme.
In the 1860s a French gold miner, Jean Désiré Féraud, planted thyme in his garden at Clyde in Central Otago. The herb escaped, found the dry, frost-bitten, sunbaked schist country much like its native Mediterranean garrigue, and being unpalatable to sheep and rabbits, spread until it now clothes thousands of hectares of the Otago hills in a lilac haze each summer. It made New Zealand one of only two countries outside Europe where thyme grows wild across the open land. The same hills raise some of the world's finest lamb, and the marriage of the two is a genuine taste of place: lamb roasted under a blanket of the wild thyme that grows where it grazed, finished with the dark, herbal wild thyme honey that Otago's bees make from the very same flowers. It is a young nation's dish with an old herb at its heart.
Wild thyme (Thymus serpyllum or naturalised Thymus vulgaris) has a slightly more delicate, spreading habit than cultivated thyme but the same warm fragrance; ordinary garden thyme works perfectly well if wild is unavailable. Central Otago wild thyme honey is dark and intensely herbal; any strong, dark honey such as a good buckwheat or chestnut honey will stand in. The dish suits a shoulder of lamb too, slow-roasted for longer at a lower temperature until it pulls apart.
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