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Mongolia's steamed mutton dumplings, pleated shut around a filling of fat, onion and nothing much else, eaten by the dozen at the lunar new year
Origin: Ulaanbaatar & the Mongolian Plateau
From the journey of Wheat.
Buuz are pleated, steamed, and deliberately plain. The filling is minced or hand-chopped mutton with a good deal of its own fat, onion or wild steppe garlic, salt, and often nothing else at all; there is no soy sauce, no ginger, no five spice. Mongolians will say that a buuz should taste of the sheep, and the seasoning is set at whatever level lets that happen. The fat is structural rather than incidental. A buuz filling wants to be visibly fatty, because as it steams the fat renders and collects in the base of the dumpling, so a properly made one holds a mouthful of hot juice under the pleats. That is the reward for the pleating and the reason they are eaten holding the dumpling upright and biting a small hole in the side first. They belong overwhelmingly to Tsagaan Sar, the lunar new year and the most important holiday of the Mongolian calendar. A household prepares them by the several hundred in the weeks beforehand, freezing them on trays outdoors, which in a Mongolian winter needs no equipment whatever; guests arriving through the holiday are fed them continuously, and the number a family can put out is a plain measure of its standing. Eating twenty at a sitting is not remarkable. The dumpling belongs to the family that runs from Chinese baozi through Central Asian manti to Tibetan and Nepali momo, and the Mongolian branch has three members distinguished by size and method: buuz steamed, bansh smaller and boiled in soup or tea, and khuushuur flattened and deep-fried, which is what fills the air at the Naadam festival in July.
Hand-chop the meat and keep the fat: both are what separate a buuz from a generic dumpling, and lean minced lamb gives a dry, crumbly filling. Oil the steamer generously and lift the dumplings out with a spoon. The small opening at the top is deliberate and is not a failure to seal. They freeze extremely well raw on a floured tray and steam from frozen with five minutes added, which is how every Mongolian household actually handles them. Milk tea, salty and made with a little butter, is what they are drunk with, and it is a better match than it sounds.
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