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the Kōchi confection that treats candied peel as a sweet in its own right: pomelo rind cut thick, simmered through many waters, glazed in syrup, and finished in a heavy coat of sugar
Origin: Japan
From the journey of Pomelo.
The pomelo reached Japan from China by the eighteenth century and settled in the warm south, where it is buntan, and in its largest Kumamoto form banpeiyu, the biggest citrus grown in the country. Kōchi on Shikoku is the historic buntan district and the home of this confection. Buntan-zuke is candied peel, but the phrase undersells it. Japanese confectionery treats fruit peel as a serious material rather than as a decoration for cakes, and the pieces here are cut thick, a centimetre or more, so that the finished sweet has a soft yielding centre beneath a firm sugared exterior. It is closer to a pâte de fruit or a fruit jelly than to the shreds of mixed peel sold for baking, and it is eaten on its own with green tea, where its faint retained bitterness plays against the tea's astringency. The method is the same de-bittering technique that recurs at every point on this fruit's journey, differing only in what it is aiming at. What distinguishes the Japanese version is the deliberate retention of a little bitterness: where a Chinese candied peel is usually taken to complete blandness before sugaring, buntan-zuke stops one blanching short. The result is a sweet that keeps a citrus edge underneath, which is very much the Japanese preference in confectionery, where unrelieved sweetness is considered a fault.
Unwaxed fruit is essential, since wax survives blanching and gives a dull, faintly greasy finish. Keeps six weeks in an airtight tin. Serve with green tea, where the retained bitterness is the point. The same method with a fourth blanching gives a sweeter, blander Chinese-style candied peel; with grapefruit it gives a thinner and more aggressively bitter sweet that is also good. The leftover syrup is intensely flavoured and excellent in soda water or over ice cream. Kōchi and Kumamoto also sell the peel half-dipped in dark chocolate, a modern treatment and a very successful one.
To explore — select an ingredient below.
To explore — select an ingredient below · click any location dot on the map for recipes and stories · browse the information panel on the right · trace the full journey on the timeline.
Journey Point Map Key