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the imperial city's beef and pork noodle soup: thick round rice noodles in a lemongrass and shrimp-paste broth stained red with annatto chilli oil
Origin: Huế & Central Vietnam
From the journey of Rice.
Bún bò Huế is the noodle soup of Vietnam's old imperial capital, and in Huế itself it is simply bún bò; the city's name is what the rest of the country appends to distinguish it. Thick round rice noodles sit in a broth of beef shank and pork bones driven by lemongrass and fermented shrimp paste, stained orange-red with annatto oil, and it is eaten at breakfast. It is worth setting against phở, because the two are frequently treated as versions of one thing and are not. Phở is a northern soup, clear, sweetened by charred onion and ginger and perfumed with star anise and cassia, served with flat noodles. Bún bò Huế is central, and central Vietnamese cooking is the spicy, salty, assertively seasoned end of the country: the broth is cloudy, the noodles round and thick, the aromatics lemongrass rather than anise, and the seasoning shrimp paste rather than fish sauce alone. Where phở is restrained, this is not. The fermented shrimp paste, mắm ruốc, is the element that decides it. It is stirred into water, left to settle, and only the clear liquid is added to the pot, which gives depth without cloudiness or grit. Leave it out and the soup is a lemongrass beef broth; put it in and it is Huế. Huế's cooking carries the memory of the Nguyễn court, which sat there from 1802 until 1945 and demanded elaborate, small, precisely made dishes. The tradition attributes bún bò to a woman remembered as Bà Bún of Vân Cù village, near Huế, who is said to have made the noodles; the story is local and undocumented and is best treated as folklore, though Vân Cù is a real noodle-making village and still supplies the city. What is certain is that the dish belongs to the central coast and that the bowl is finished at the table by the eater, with banana blossom, perilla, bean sprouts, lime, and as much chilli as they want.
Thick round bún bò Huế noodles are a different product from the thin bún used in bún chả and are sold dried by Vietnamese grocers; nothing else gives the right slippery bite. Settle the shrimp paste and use only the liquid. Never boil the broth. Strain the annatto seeds out as soon as the oil colours. The banana blossom is traditional and worth seeking out, but shredded white cabbage stands in for it. Blanch the meat and bones and start again with clean water; this is the standard first step in Vietnamese soup-making and it is what makes the difference between a clear broth and a cloudy one.
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