Bubble and Squeak

The British leftover classic: cold potato, cabbage, and Brussels sprouts fried into a crisp golden cake

Origin: England, United Kingdom

Bubble and squeak is the great British dish of thrift, the fried-up leftovers of a roast dinner turned into something arguably better than the meal that bore them. Its essence is cold mashed or crushed potato bound with shredded greens, above all cabbage and, in its festive form, the leftover Brussels sprouts of the Christmas or Sunday dinner, pressed into a pan with hot dripping or butter and fried until a deep golden crust forms beneath. The curious name is generally said to come from the sounds the vegetables make as they bubble and squeak in the hot pan. The dish is centuries old, a fixture of the British kitchen since at least the eighteenth century, and it speaks to a national instinct against waste: the Boxing Day breakfast or supper of fried Christmas leftovers is a tradition in countless British households, the sprouts and cabbage and potato of the great meal given a crisp second life. Traditionally it accompanied cold cuts of the leftover roast, and it remains a beloved part of the full English breakfast and the brunch table, often crowned with a fried egg. For the Brussels sprout in particular, bubble and squeak is a kind of afterlife: the much-argued-over green of the Christmas plate, frying up the next morning into the crispest and most popular dish of the whole festive table.

Ingredients

500 g cooked potato (leftover mash or boiled potato, crushed)
200 g cooked Brussels sprouts, roughly chopped (leftover, or freshly boiled)
200 g cooked cabbage or spring greens, chopped (leftover, or freshly boiled)
1 onion, finely chopped
40 g butter, beef dripping, or bacon fat
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method

If the potato is not already mashed, crush it roughly with a fork. Mix the potato, chopped sprouts, and chopped cabbage together in a bowl and season well with salt and plenty of pepper.
Melt half the fat in a large, heavy frying pan over medium heat and soften the onion until golden and sweet, about 5 minutes.
Add the remaining fat, then tip in the vegetable mixture and press it down into an even cake with a spatula.
Fry undisturbed over medium heat for 6 to 8 minutes, until a deep golden-brown crust forms underneath. You should hear it bubble and squeak.
Break it up and turn it over in sections (or flip the whole cake if you are brave), press down again, and fry the other side until equally crisp and golden, another 5 to 6 minutes.
Serve hot, in wedges, with cold roast meats, as part of a cooked breakfast, or topped with a fried egg.

Notes

Bubble and squeak is endlessly forgiving: almost any leftover cooked vegetable can go in, but potato and greens (cabbage and/or sprouts) are the heart of it. A little leftover gravy stirred through adds flavour. For individual portions, fry as small cakes rather than one large one.

The Gastrographer

Name: Bubble and Squeak
Prep time: 15 min
Cook time: 20 min
Total time: 35 min
Yield: 4
Cuisine: United Kingdom
Ingredients: 500 g cooked potato (leftover mash or boiled potato, crushed); 200 g cooked Brussels sprouts, roughly chopped (leftover, or freshly boiled); 200 g cooked cabbage or spring greens, chopped (leftover, or freshly boiled); 1 onion, finely chopped; 40 g butter, beef dripping, or bacon fat; salt and freshly ground black pepper

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Journey Point Map Key

Ingredient originTrade or transit route

Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control