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the great celebration cake of the Appalachian hills: a dark, spiced layer cake bound with home-made blackberry jam and studded with walnuts and raisins, cloaked in caramel icing
Origin: United States
From the journey of Blackberry.
The blackberry jam cake is the great celebration cake of Kentucky, Tennessee, and the wider Appalachian South, baked for Christmas, for homecomings, and for family reunions, and carried down through generations in handwritten recipe cards. It belongs to the old rural economy of the hills, in which the summer's glut of wild blackberries was cooked down into jam and kept through the year, and in which that jam was then folded into a cake to make a rich, dark, moist crumb spiced with cinnamon, clove, allspice, and nutmeg and studded, in the old style, with walnuts and raisins. The blackberry jam is the heart of the cake, lending it colour, moisture, and a deep, brambly fruit note beneath the warm spices; a jam cake made without it is simply a spice cake, and not the thing at all. The whole is traditionally baked in layers and cloaked in a caramel icing, the burnt-sugar sweetness of the icing set against the dark, spiced, fruited crumb, though a plain buttermilk glaze or a dusting of sugar is common in more everyday versions. It is a cake that keeps and improves for days, and that tastes unmistakably of an Appalachian autumn.
This is the celebration version with its full complement of caramel icing; for an everyday cake, bake it in a single Bundt or loaf tin and finish with a simple buttermilk glaze or a dusting of icing sugar. The walnuts and raisins are traditional but optional, and black walnuts, the intense native American nut, are the truly authentic Appalachian choice where they can be had. The quality of the cake rests above all on the jam, so use the best dark blackberry jam you can, or make your own from the summer's brambles.
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