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Charleston's thin, brittle, lace-edged sesame biscuit, descended from the benne seed enslaved West Africans carried across the Atlantic and planted for good luck: toasted sesame folded into a buttery brown-sugar batter, dropped small, and baked until it spreads into a crisp, caramel-gold wafer that snaps and floods the mouth with toasted seed
Origin: Charleston, South Carolina, United States
From the journey of Sesame.
Benne is the Gullah Geechee word for sesame, from the Mande languages of West Africa, and the benne wafer is one of the clearest culinary threads binding the American South to the continent its enslaved cooks came from. West Africans carried sesame across the Middle Passage and planted it at the edges of their gardens, both as food and for the good fortune it was held to bring (the Gullah called it the 'goodwill' plant), and by the early eighteenth century it was growing across the Carolina Lowcountry. The earliest published American recipe for a sesame dish appears in Sarah Rutledge's The Carolina Housewife of 1847, and the benne wafer became, and remains, an emblem of Charleston, sold in the city's shops and set out at receptions. The seed is toasted to bring up its nuttiness, then suspended in a thin brown-sugar batter that bakes out into a brittle, lace-edged, caramel wafer in which sesame is the whole flavour. It is the New World end of a journey that began in the Indus Valley five thousand years before.
Benne wafers are made both ways across the Lowcountry: this brown-sugar version is the sweet, brittle wafer sold in Charleston's shops, but a savoury version, seasoned only with salt (and sometimes cayenne), is served as a cocktail nibble. The key in both is well-toasted seed and a thin batter dropped small. They keep for a week or more in an airtight tin, crisping as they sit, and are wonderful with afternoon tea, coffee, or a glass of sweet sherry. Use natural (unhulled) sesame for the most pronounced flavour.
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To explore — select an ingredient below · click any location dot on the map for recipes and stories · browse the information panel on the right · trace the full journey on the timeline.
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