The Veneto is the heartland of the Italian risotto tradition, and its repertoire draws heavily on the region's remarkable market garden culture. Beetroot risotto (risotto alla barbabietola) achieves its vivid rose-pink colour through a technique particular to this preparation: part of the beet is roasted and blended into a purée that is stirred into the rice with the stock, tinting it throughout, while raw grated beet is added at the very end (the mantecatura stage) to preserve both its fresh flavour and its vivid pigment. The result is a risotto that moves from pink at the edges to deeper rose at the centre, rich with the earthy sweetness of the root and cut by the sharp salinity of aged Parmigiano-Reggiano. A small addition of goat's cheese or mascarpone added with the butter at the finish adds a second tier of sourness that plays against the sweetness of the beet. It is simultaneously one of the most visually striking risotti in the Italian repertoire and one of the most straightforward.
Ingredients
Rice
320 g Carnaroli or Arborio risotto rice
Beetroot
400 g raw beetroot (about 2–3 medium), divided: 300g roasted, 100g raw and grated
Base
1 medium onion, very finely diced
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tbsp unsalted butter
2 tbsp olive oil
150 ml dry white wine
Stock
1.2 litres warm vegetable or light chicken stock, kept at a bare simmer
Finish
60 g unsalted butter, cold, cut into cubes (for mantecatura)
60 g Parmigiano-Reggiano, freshly grated
50 g soft goat's cheese or mascarpone (optional, for added creaminess)
Seasoning
salt and white pepper
Garnish
fresh thyme leaves and extra Parmesan, to serve
Method
Preheat the oven to 200°C (180°C fan). Wrap 300g of the beetroot individually in foil. Roast for 45–55 minutes until completely tender (a skewer should pass through without resistance). Allow to cool, then peel. Blend or process to a smooth purée with 2–3 tablespoons of stock. Set aside. Grate the remaining 100g raw beet on the fine side of a grater; reserve.
In a heavy-based sauté pan or wide, low-sided pot, warm the olive oil and 2 tablespoons of butter over medium heat. Add the onion and cook gently for 10 minutes until completely soft and translucent. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute more.
Add the rice and stir to coat in the oil and butter. Toast for 2 minutes until the grains are slightly translucent at the edges.
Pour in the white wine and stir until completely absorbed.
Begin adding the warm stock, one ladleful at a time, stirring constantly and waiting for each addition to be absorbed before adding the next. After the second ladle, stir in the beetroot purée: the risotto will immediately turn rose-pink. Continue adding stock and stirring for a total of 18–20 minutes until the rice is al dente: cooked through but with a slight resistance at the centre.
Remove from the heat. Stir in the cold butter cubes, Parmesan, and goat's cheese (if using). Beat vigorously with a wooden spoon or fold firmly: this is the mantecatura, which creates the characteristic wave-like, creamy consistency. Stir in the reserved raw grated beetroot.
Check the seasoning. The risotto should flow slowly on the plate: all'onda, 'like a wave'. Add a splash of hot stock if it is too thick. Spoon into warm shallow bowls, finish with fresh thyme and extra Parmesan, and serve immediately.
Notes
Risotto waits for no one: serve immediately from the pot. The colour deepens as it cools. Any leftover risotto can be pressed into cakes and pan-fried in butter and olive oil to make arancini-style suppli.
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