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the classic French white sauce of milk infused with bay, onion, and clove, then thickened with a butter-and-flour roux and seasoned with nutmeg, one of the mother sauces of French cooking
Origin: France
From the journey of Bay Leaf.
Béchamel is one of the mother sauces of French cuisine, the smooth white sauce from which a whole family of others descends, and the bay leaf is the quiet key to its character. The secret of a good béchamel is not merely the roux of butter and flour that thickens it but the infusion that flavours the milk: before the milk ever meets the roux, it is warmed gently with a bay leaf, a few slices of onion (or a whole onion studded with cloves, the onion piqué), and perhaps a blade of mace, so that it takes up a soft, savoury, aromatic depth. The infused milk is then strained and whisked into the pale roux, cooked out until thick and glossy, and seasoned with salt, white pepper, and the classic grating of nutmeg. The result is the foundation of gratins and lasagne, of croque-monsieur and moussaka, of soufflés and creamed dishes without number, and the base of the derived sauces, Mornay with cheese, soubise with onion. It is a sauce in which the bay leaf is never seen and never tasted directly, yet without its infusion the milk, and the sauce, would be the poorer.
The onion piqué (onion studded with cloves and bay) is the traditional French way to infuse the milk; some cooks simply add a bay leaf and a slice of onion. The ratio of equal butter and flour to milk gives a medium pouring sauce; use less liquid for a thick sauce to bind a gratin or lasagne. Béchamel is the base for Mornay (with cheese), soubise (with onion), and many gratins.
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