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Bulgaria's coiled filo pie of sirene cheese and egg, and on New Year's Eve the one with fortunes baked inside it
Origin: Sofia & Bulgaria
From the journey of Wheat.
Banitsa is filo, cheese, and egg, and the argument in Bulgaria is entirely about shape. The sheets are brushed with butter or oil, spread with a mixture of crumbled sirene, beaten egg, and yoghurt, then either rolled into long ropes and coiled into a spiral in a round tin, or layered flat and cut into squares. The coiled version is the older and the more usual, and it bakes with a crisp shell and a soft interior where the filling has steamed between the layers. The cheese is not interchangeable. Sirene is a brined white cheese, crumbly, salty, and slightly sour, made across Bulgaria from cow's, sheep's, or a mixture of milks; it is close to a Greek feta and Bulgarians will tell you at length that it is not the same thing. What matters at the stove is that it is salty and dry enough to season the whole pie without any additional salt and firm enough not to weep. The New Year's Eve version is the reason most outsiders have heard of it. Small paper fortunes, kysmeti, are wrapped in foil and buried in the filling before baking, one for each person at the table, and each fortune names something for the coming year: health, love, money, travel, happiness. Some households substitute or add a coin, and finding it is the good one. In older practice cornel-cherry twigs with buds counted were used instead of paper, and the custom is genuinely old even if the printed fortunes are not. It is eaten at breakfast with ayran or boza, at any hour from a bakery counter, and warm rather than hot. Bulgarians reheat it readily and regard a day-old banitsa as perfectly good.
Roll each rope loosely and do not compress the coil; the air between the layers is what keeps a banitsa from turning into a dense slab. Work with one sheet of filo at a time under a damp cloth. Do not salt the filling, since sirene is salty enough to season the entire pie; taste the cheese first if you are substituting feta, and rinse it if it is very salty. The yoghurt-and-egg wash poured over the top before baking is not optional in Bulgaria and is what distinguishes the finished surface from a plain buttered filo pie. It keeps for three days and reheats well in a moderate oven.
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