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The sizzling turmeric and coconut rice crêpe of the Mekong, folded over pork, prawns, and bean sprouts
Origin: Mekong Delta & Southern Vietnam
From the journey of Turmeric.
The dish is named after a noise. Xèo is the sizzle a thin rice batter makes when it hits a pan of very hot fat, and the name is the whole promise: if it does not make that sound, the pan is not hot enough and the crêpe will be limp. The yellow is turmeric and nothing else, which is worth saying because almost everyone assumes egg. There is no egg in a bánh xèo. Nghệ is stirred into a batter of rice flour and coconut milk, and it does two jobs at once: it gives the colour that makes the dish recognisable across the world, and its faint bitterness sets against the sweetness of the coconut in a way that keeps a rich crêpe from cloying. The coconut milk is the southern signature. Vietnam divides sharply in the kitchen, and the Mekong delta, wet, hot, and a former Khmer territory absorbed by the Nguyễn lords across the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, cooks with coconut in a way the north does not. The southern bánh xèo is consequently large, rich, and made in a wide pan; the central version from Huế and Quy Nhơn, bánh khoái, is small and thick and often has no coconut at all. How it is eaten matters as much as how it is made. A piece is torn off, laid on a mustard leaf or a lettuce leaf with mint and perilla and whatever else is on the table, rolled into a parcel, and dipped in nước chấm. Nobody eats it with a knife and fork, and the greens are not a garnish; the bitterness of the mustard leaf against the fat of the crêpe is half the design. Whether the form itself came from India is argued over. The Indianised kingdoms of Funan and the Cham had a long presence in exactly this territory, and the resemblance to a South Indian dosa, a fermented rice batter cooked thin on a hot griddle, is not lost on anyone who has eaten both. The connection is plausible and unproven, and it is fairer to note the parallel than to claim the descent.
There is no egg in bánh xèo. The colour is turmeric, and a recipe that reaches for egg to get there has misunderstood the dish. Beer in place of some of the water is a common southern trick and gives a lighter, crisper result; sparkling water does much the same. A well-seasoned cast iron or carbon steel pan gives the best crust but demands confidence and plenty of fat. Non-stick is far more forgiving and worth using the first few times. Make the nước chấm ahead: fish sauce, lime juice, sugar, water, garlic, and chilli, balanced until it is sweet, sour, and salty at once. The central Vietnamese bánh khoái is the same idea at a quarter of the size, thicker, usually without coconut milk, and served with a fermented soybean and peanut sauce rather than nước chấm. For a vegetarian version, leave out the pork and prawns and fill with fried tofu, shiitake, and plenty of bean sprouts. The batter is already vegan.
To explore — select an ingredient below.
To explore — select an ingredient below · click any location dot on the map for recipes and stories · browse the information panel on the right · trace the full journey on the timeline.
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