Baci di Dama

the 'ladies' kisses' of Piedmont: two little domes of toasted-hazelnut shortbread joined with a dab of dark chocolate, a pair of biscuits kissing over their sweet filling

Origin: Italy

From the journey of Hazelnut.

Baci di dama, 'ladies' kisses', are amongst the most beloved of all Piedmontese biscuits, little confections of two small, round, hazelnut shortbread domes joined by a dab of dark chocolate so that they resemble a pair of lips, or two lovers, meeting in a kiss. They are said to have been created in the nineteenth century in the town of Tortona, in the Piedmontese province of Alessandria, and they belong wholly to the region's love affair with its hazelnut: the biscuit is made of ground toasted hazelnuts, butter, sugar, and flour in near-equal measure, which gives it a short, sandy, melting texture and a deep, fragrant nuttiness, and the two halves are sandwiched with a little melted dark chocolate that sets to hold them together. Small, elegant, and irresistible, they are served with coffee, offered at the end of a meal, and packed into boxes as a gift; and though pastry shops across Piedmont now make them, they remain a favourite of the home baker. Delicate to shape and requiring a little patience, they reward it with one of the prettiest and most delicious expressions of the Piedmontese hazelnut.

Ingredients

Biscuits

150 g hazelnuts, toasted, skinned, and finely ground
150 g plain flour
150 g cold unsalted butter, cubed
130 g caster sugar
1 pinch salt

Filling

100 g dark chocolate, chopped

Method

Rub or blend the cold butter into the ground hazelnuts, flour, sugar, and salt until it comes together into a smooth dough. Shape into a disc, wrap, and chill for at least 30 minutes.
Heat the oven to 160°C (140°C fan) and line two baking sheets. Pinch off small, even pieces of dough, about the size of a hazelnut, and roll each into a smooth ball. Set them well apart on the sheets.
Bake for 13 to 15 minutes, until pale golden and just firm; they should keep their domed shape and not spread much. Cool completely on the sheets, as they are very fragile while warm.
Melt the dark chocolate gently and let it cool until slightly thickened. Turn half the domes flat-side up and pipe or dab a little chocolate onto each, then press a second dome onto it, flat sides together, to make a pair.
Set the filled baci aside, chocolate down, until the filling is completely set. Store in a tin and serve with coffee.

Notes

Some bakers use half hazelnuts and half almonds for the biscuit, and a few make a paler version with white or gianduja chocolate in the middle, but the classic Tortonese baci di dama are all hazelnut with dark chocolate. The dough can be flavoured with a little grated orange zest or a scrape of vanilla. Because the biscuits are so small and delicate, weighing the dough into even pieces is well worth the trouble for neat, matching pairs.

The Gastrographer

Name: Baci di Dama
Prep time: 40 min
Cook time: 15 min
Total time: 1 h 30 min
Yield: 30
Cuisine: Italy
Ingredients: 150 g hazelnuts, toasted, skinned, and finely ground; 150 g plain flour; 150 g cold unsalted butter, cubed; 130 g caster sugar; 1 pinch salt; 100 g dark chocolate, chopped

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Journey Point Map Key

Ingredient originTrade or transit route

Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control