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Manado's chicken in a pounded paste of red chillies, shallot, ginger, and lemongrass, cooked down until the oil splits out and finished with lemon basil
Origin: Manado & the Minahasa Peninsula, North Sulawesi
From the journey of Chilli Pepper.
Rica is the Manado word for chilli, and it is also the Manado word for hot. Doubled, rica-rica names not a single dish but a treatment: anything cooked in a fried paste of chillies, shallot, garlic, ginger, lemongrass, and lime leaves is rica-rica, whether it is chicken, fish, prawns, or, in the city's more notorious warungs, meat that visitors are advised to ask about first. The chicken version travelled furthest and is on menus across Indonesia. Minahasan cooking is the hottest in the archipelago by a distance, and it has three pillars, all built on the chilli. Rica-rica is the fried paste; woku is the fragrant version of it, loaded with lemongrass, turmeric, pandan, and lemon basil and either simmered in a pot or wrapped in leaves; and dabu-dabu is the raw salsa of chopped chilli, tomato, shallot, and lime juice set beside grilled fish. A Manado table generally has at least two of the three on it. The chilli reached this corner of Sulawesi early, because the Portuguese were at Ternate, a day's sail away, from 1512, and because the Maluku spice trade drew ships of every flag past the Minahasa coast for the next two centuries. A cuisine that had built itself on ginger, lemongrass, and the peppery local forest fruits took up the American plant and pushed it further than its neighbours did.
Thirty chillies is the Manado quantity and is not a misprint. Seeding the large red ones keeps the colour and cuts the heat by roughly half. Lemon basil is sold as kemangi in Indonesian shops; Thai sweet basil is the nearest substitute and is not quite the same scent.
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