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Venezuela's most famous stuffed arepa: split and filled with creamy avocado and shredded chicken, named for a beauty queen in 1955 and eaten at every corner arepera from Caracas to the diaspora
Origin: Caracas, Venezuela
From the journey of Corn.
The reina pepiada, 'curvy queen' in Venezuelan slang, was created in 1955 at the El Recreo arepera in Caracas, invented by a vendor named Heliodoro Álamo to celebrate the crowning of Susana Duijm as Miss World, the first Latin American woman to win the title. The filling, shredded chicken bound with avocado and mayonnaise, sometimes with green peas, was named in her honour. It swept through Venezuelan popular culture and became the most ordered filling at areperas across the country, a position it has held for seventy years. The arepa itself is made from masarepa (pre-cooked dehydrated corn flour, sold as Harina P.A.N.): the same corn masa tradition that dates back thousands of years, now in industrialised form. Venezuela's areperas are the country's most democratic institution: open twenty-four hours, serving everyone from politicians to taxi drivers, the filling the only variable. The reina pepiada is their queen.
Masarepa (Harina P.A.N.) is non-negotiable for this recipe; it cannot be substituted with regular cornmeal or masa harina, which have different textures and cooking properties. Harina P.A.N. is widely available in Latin American grocery stores and many supermarkets. The filling is endlessly variable: pabellón (shredded beef, black beans, sweet plantain), domino (black beans and white cheese), or simply butter and cheese. But the reina pepiada, seventy years after its invention, remains the queen.
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