Anar Raita

A cooling North Indian raita of whisked yoghurt with jewelled fresh pomegranate, roasted cumin, mint, and a touch of chaat masala

Origin: North India

From the journey of Pomegranate.

Raita, the whisked yoghurt relish that cools and balances the North Indian meal, takes a hundred forms, with cucumber, with boondi, with roasted aubergine, with mint, and one of the prettiest is anar raita, made with the fresh seeds of the pomegranate. Thick yoghurt is whisked smooth and seasoned with roasted cumin, black salt, a little chaat masala, and fresh mint, and a generous handful of pomegranate seeds is folded through, jewel-bright against the white, lending sweet-sour bursts and a fresh crunch to the cool, soft yoghurt. The pairing of yoghurt and pomegranate is an old Mughal one, the sweet-sour fruit set against the cooling dairy, and the raita is the everyday Indian expression of it. It sits beside a biryani or a pulao, a plate of kebabs, or a tray of stuffed parathas, its job to refresh the palate between mouthfuls of spice and richness; the pomegranate makes it festive as well as cooling, a dish as good to look at as it is to eat. It is the simplest possible showcase for the fresh anar of the Indian fruit bowl.

Ingredients

  • 400 g thick plain yoghurt (whole-milk or Greek-style)
  • 1 large pomegranate, seeds only (about 150 g)
  • 1 tsp cumin seeds, dry-roasted and coarsely ground
  • 0.5 tsp chaat masala
  • 0.25 tsp black salt (kala namak), or to taste
  • 1 tbsp fresh mint, finely chopped
  • 1 tbsp fresh coriander, finely chopped
  • salt and a pinch of sugar, to taste
  • a pinch of chilli powder, to finish

Method

  1. Whisk the yoghurt in a bowl until completely smooth and creamy. Loosen with a splash of cold water if it is very thick.
  2. Stir in the roasted ground cumin, chaat masala, black salt, mint, and coriander. Taste and adjust with salt and a pinch of sugar to balance.
  3. Fold through most of the pomegranate seeds, keeping a spoonful back for the top.
  4. Transfer to a serving bowl, scatter the reserved pomegranate seeds, the reserved cumin, and a pinch of chilli powder over the surface, and chill until ready to serve.
  5. Serve cold, alongside biryani, pulao, grilled meats, or parathas.

Notes

Anar raita is best made within an hour or two of serving, so the pomegranate seeds keep their crunch and do not bleed into the yoghurt. For a richer version, fold in a little grated cucumber (squeezed dry) or a tablespoon of chopped roasted nuts. Black salt (kala namak) gives the characteristic savoury, faintly sulphurous tang of Indian raita; ordinary salt can stand in. A drizzle of pomegranate molasses intensifies the fruit note.

The Gastrographer

The Gastrographer

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Ingredient originTrade or transit route
Became a culinary stapleColonial / trade control
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